
Class f^J ^ ^^ ^. 
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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE GARDENER'S 
POCKET MANUAL 



FrF^ ROCKWELL 

AUTHOR OF 
Home Vegetable Gardening," "Gardening Indoors 
and Under Glass," "Making a Garden 
of Small Fruits," etc. 



NEW YORK 

McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 

1914 






Copyright, 1914, by 
McBride, Nast & Co. 



APR 21 1314 



Published, April, 1914 



r 



.7^ 

'C(.A369772 



' PREFACE 

THE object in preparing this book has been to sup- 
ply a manual giving in the briefest possible way 
all the necessary information and data covering the actual 
operations which one finds oneself called upon to per- 
form in looking after the flower garden, the vegetable 
garden, and the place in general. It is intended to serve 
as a reminder, suggester, and general pocket memory in 
connection with the thousand and one points which one 
who is not devoting his whole time to the work, naturally 
fails to keep in mind, such as how deep to plant hardy 
lily bulbs, how far apart to put rows of salsify, when 
to prune the different sorts of shrubs, what spray to use 
for blister-mite, when to sow carrots and beets for the 
winter crop, and the innumerable other things which 
you will find yourself wanting to know during the course 
of the year, while you are actually at work. 

You probably know from past experience, how annoy- 
ing and time-wasting it is to drop your tools or your 
work to go back to the house, scrape the mud off your 
feet, and hunt up a book or the back number of a maga- 
zine and to search through it until you find or fail to 
find the bit of information you want to be certain about. 
It is to save these unnecessary steps, this loss of time and 
annoyance, to make the gardener's work easier and more 
pleasant and effective, that the present book is written. 
It is designed to be slipped into the pocket and to be 
carried out into the garden, — out of the way but *' on the 
job " all the time. 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

COLDFRAMES AND HoTBEDs: Dimensions; materials; sash and 
sash covers; starting plants inside; dates to sow; dis- 
tances to transplant i 

Manures and Fertilizers: Home mixing; accelerators; 

keeping the soil in good condition 9 

Handling the Soil: Sub-soiling; draining 14 

Sowing and Planting: Brief directions; early and late 

sowings; rule for depth 17 

Tools and Cultivation: Use of wheelhoe and various at- 
tachments; hand weeding; level culture 21 

Irrigation: Hose and overhead systems; water pressure . 26 

Weeds 29 

Grafting and Budding 31 

Tree Repair 34 

Concrete and Iron Pipe: Uses and construction .... 36 

Vegetables: Planting table; hardy and tender sorts; fruit, 

root, and leaf crops 39 

Cultural Directions 47 

Flowers: Table of the most popular sorts; heights, colors, 
etc.; making beds; starting seedlings; making cut- 
tings; transplanting 55 

Shrubs: Planting; mulching 68 

Fruits: Setting out; spraying; pruning 73 

Bulbs: Kinds for fall planting; for spring planting . . 75 

Insects and Diseases: Sprays and sprayers 78 

Home-made Sprays and Poisons : Formulas ; complete spray- 
ing table 83 



THE GARDENER'S POCKET 
MANUAL 

I 

COLDFRAMES AND HOTBEDS 

ONE of the most important adjuncts to the flower and 
vegetable gardens is the " frames." The coldframe 
is merely a pit or frame sunk part way into the ground, 
the back usually six inches higher than the front to give 
a slope to the sash, which are used as a cover, so that rain 
w411 run off and the sun's rays will strike it more nearly 
at right angles. The coldframe is usually made eighteen 
to twenty four inches deep at the back and twelve to 
eighteen at the front. 

A hotbed is practically the same as a coldframe, but 
made deeper, to allow for putting into it a thick layer 
of actively decomposing manure to furnish the heat. 

Boards, plank, brick or concrete can be used to make 
the frame, but if the frame can be given a permanent 
place, the latter material is much the more satisfactory; 
and although it costs a little more than wood in the first 
instance, repairs are eliminated and the cold is most effect- 
ively kept out. In making the frame, be sure, first of 
all, to get all your measurements exact. Standard sash 
are approximately three by six feet, and the frame is usu- 
ally made six feet wide inside measurement, and as long 

1 



2 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

as necessary to accommodate the number of sash to be 
used. Where cross pieces are desired to slide the frames 
on, as in the accompanying diagram, an inch or so will 
have to be allowed for each of these. You can buy cast 
iron tops to finish off brick or concrete frames. The 
diagram shows the proper dimensions of material for 



SOIL 




L-EVE.L 



Fig. 



Frame, banked with soil. 



an ordinary frame, and while cypress is the most lasting 
wood to use, pine or chestnut, thoroughly cured, will do 
well enough. In case narrow boards have to be used, 
a layer of roofing paper over the outside will be well 
worth while. 

It is better, if possible, to make the frames in the fall 
before the ground is frozen. Sometimes it is necessary 




Fig. 2 — Hot-bed, made on manure. 

to make a hotbed in the spring, when the ground is 
frozen, hard, and in this case, the frame is placed on top 
of the manure, as shown in Fig. 2. The frame should, 
of course, be thoroughly banked up to protect from frost, 
using either soil, ashes or manure. 

The manure should be actively fermenting when put 



COLDFRAMES AND HOTBEDS 3 

into the frame; that from grain fed horses is the best to 
procure. A small amount of short straw or leaves, not 
more than a third at most, may be mixed through it. 
Pack it in a square heap and turn two or three times at 
intervals of three or four days, wetting it down thor- 
oughly if at all dry, but do not soak. From twelve to 
twenty-four inches of manure are put in to supply heat, 
the latter depth being necessary in a very cold climate, 
or where extra heat is desired. Before putting in the 
manure, remove three to eight inches of the soil, replacing 
it after trampling the manure down firmly, in layers of 
six to eight inches. 

Sash. The standard sash have a single layer of glass ; 
every set of frames should, however, include one or two of 
the double glass type, with an air space between the two 
layers of glass, as they are more efficient, especially on 
coldframes, where sunshine is the only source of heat. 
For use in late spring, a good substitute for the glass 
sash is had, in " cloth sash " — light wooden frames, made 
the same size as the sash, and covered with plant " pro- 
tecting-cloth " which can be bought in the heavy grade 
for twelve to fifteen cents a yard. When not in use over 
the frames, these cloth sash can be used as shutters or 
mats over the glass sash. '' Shutters " are merely light 
wooden sash used to put over the glass sash as an extra 
protection in cold weather. " Mats " are made of either 
straw or quilted burlap, and used to cover the sash in cold 
weather. 

STARTING PLANTS UNDER GLASS 

From four to eight weeks before any planting can be 
done outside, a number of vegetables may be started in 
the frames for transplanting later. The accompanying 



4 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



table shows the kinds, and when to sow them. The 
temperatures recommended are those which are desirable, 
but not absolutely essential. In temperatures lower than 
these, however, germination is less certain and slower. 

SEEDS SOWN UNDER GLASS 



Vegetable 



Beets 

Broccoli 

Brussels Sprouts 

Cabbage 

Cauliflower . . . 

Celery 

Corn 

Cucumber .... 

Egg-plant 

Kohl-rabi 

Lettuce 

Melon, musk . . , 
Melon, water . , 

Olcra 

Onion 

Pepper 

Squash , 

Tomato , 



Date to Sow 



Feb. 

Feb. 

Feb. 

Feb. 

Feb. 

Feb. 

Apr. 

Mar. 

Mar. 

Mar. 

Feb. 

Apr. 

Apr. 

Mar. 

Jan. 

Mar. 

Mar. 

Mar. 



15-Apr. 
15-Apr. 
15-Apr. 

i-Apr. 

i-Apr. 
15-Apr. 

I -May 
15-May 

i-Apr. 

i-Apr. 
15-Apr. 

i-May 

I -May 
15-Apr. 
15-Mar. 15 

i-Apr. 15 
15-Apr. 15 

i-Apr. 15 



Best Tem- 
perature 
(about) 



degrees 
55 



50 
65 

75 
75 
55 
55 
75 
75 
65 
50 
75 
75 
75 



Days to 
Germinate 



7-10 



3- 7 



10-25 

3- 7 
5-10 
7-14 
3- 6 
3- 6 
5-10 
5-10 
5-10 

7-15 
7-12 
5-10 
5-10 



The best method of handling the seedlings is to use 
flats, constructed of cracker or soap boxes sawed up into 
two and three inch sections, and bottomed in such a way 
that they are not water tight, as provision should be made 
for drainage. The shallow ones are used for sowing 
seeds and the others for transplanting. 

The soil used should be rich, light and friable. A 
good, rich garden loam will do but a better soil will be 
made by using rotted sod, chip-dirt or dirt from the 
woods mixed with one part of thoroughly rotted manure, 
with enough sand added to " cut it " and make it friable 



V 



COLDFRAMES AND HOTBEDS 5 

so that when It is compressed In the hands, even when 
moist, It will crumble apart readily. Dig up sods in 
the summer from the roadside or where the ground Is 
rich; cut them evenly and several Inches thick, and stack 
them, grassy sides together, to rot. If you have not pre- 
pared your soil, and want to start seeds in the spring 
when the ground is frozen, a bushel or so of soil can be 
readily obtained from some seedsman or market gardener. 

Let the boxes soak up water from underneath or give 
them a thorough watering the day before planting. A 
layer of screenings, moss or other coarse material to as- 
sist in draining should be laid in the bottom of the flats 
before filling In with the seed soil. 

All of the seeds mentioned In the table except the 
larger ones, such as beans, cucumbers, corn and squash, 
should be barely covered from sight. Celery especially 
should be covered thinly; the seed should be scattered 
thinly in rows, two Inches or so apart, and the whole sur- 
face after covering lightly pressed down. Do not fill the 
boxes quite level full. A few odd pieces of glass placed 
on the boxes, leaving a crack at one side or end so as to 
admit air, will conserve the moisture and make germina- 
tion more perfect. 

Transplanting. Prepare the flats as before except 
that a layer of well rotted manure should be placed in the 
bottom of each one. If manure Is not to be had, mix 
two or three quarts of bone flour through a bushel of the 
soil several days before you need to use It. 

When the second true leaf is forming (Fig. 3), the 
seedlings will be ready to transplant. Take them out 
carefully without breaking any of the roots, and making 
a hole with the forefinger or a sharp pointed stick, " prick 
them off," fifty to one hundred in a flat. Place them at 



6 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

regular intervals, such as six rows of eight each or nine 
rows of twelve each. Give them a light watering and 
keep them well shaded from direct sunlight for three or 
four days. 





Fig. 3 — Seedlings ready for transplanting. The two to the right 
have grown spindling through over-crowding. 



Watering. Both before and after transplanting, care 
should be taken in watering the seedlings, never to let the 
soil get dry and at the same time not to have It wet. 
Water thoroughly, once in several days, when the soil 
begins to get dry on the surface. Do it on a morning 
of a bright day so that the foliage and the surface will 
be dried off before night. If a tub or pan is available, 
the best way to water, is to place the flat in this and to 
pour water around it, letting the flat soak up from under- 
neath until the soil is thoroughly saturated. 

Paper Pots and Sods. Some things do not stand 
transplanting readily or are grown in hills. Formerly 
pieces of sod, inverted and packed close together, were 
used for starting these things, but now paper pots or " dirt 
bands " may be bought at a very low price and these are 
much more convenient and very satisfactory. Simply pack 
the pots together in a flat, fill them with a good rich com- 



COLDFRAMES AND HOTBEDS 7 

post, starting several seeds to a pot, and thin out to two or 
three of the best of these when they are well started. 
Melons, cucumbers, squash, lima-beans and corn may all 
be started readily in this way, two to four weeks before 
they could be planted in the open. After the pots are set 
into the soil, the paper rots away. 

Ventilation. Give as much air as possible while 
maintaining the required temperature. This may be done 
by opening the frames quite early on bright sunny mornings 
and closing them again before the sun begins to get off 
the glass in the afternoon, so that they will not get chilled 
at nightfall and will go into the night as warm as possi- 
ble. On bright warm days, or during 
warm rains, keep the sash off entirely. 
Prop sticks, like those shown in Fig. 4, 
can be readily made from box ends, for 
adjusting the amount of ventilation to the 
weather. The temperature should be kept, 
if possible, within ten degrees higher during 
the day and ten degrees lower during the 
night, than those mentioned in the table. Fig- 4— -Notch- 

* ' ed-stick tor ven- 

As the weather gets warmer give more and tii^tuig frames. 
more air, and finally " harden off " the plants by leaving 
them uncovered day and night for several days before 
setting them out into the open. 

Treatment for Frost. If the temperature goes low 
enough to freeze the plants some night, they may be 
brought out of it usually by the following treatment: 
douse them at once with water as cold as you can pro- 
cure, and give them a second or third watering if neces- 
sary at intervals of an half hour or so until they are 
thawed out ; keep them shaded from the sun. The hardy 
things, such as cabbage or lettuce will stand several de- 



8 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

grees of frost without injury, especially if they are gradu- 
ally inured to it. All such tender things as tomatoes and 
egg-plants, if not actually killed by frost, will be so set 
back that they will not amount to much. 



II 

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 

ASIDE from the plant food in the soil itself, certain 
of the several natural and chemical fertilizers, such 
as manure, bone-dust and potash salts (see accompanying 
table for fertilizer materials and their analysis) are the 
commonest sources of plant food. 

The several elements of plant food must not only be 
in the soil in abundance, but must be in soluble and 
available forms. The plant food in manure, for instance, 
is of little or no use until, through the process of de- 
composition, it becomes available to the plants' feeding 
roots. 

Taking Care of Manure. Whether manure is made 
on the place or bought, it should be kept under cover, 
preferably in a pit with a cement bottom so that all 
the liquid shall be saved. If it shows a tendency to 
heat too much and becomes fire-fanged and burned, it 
should be turned and tramped down firmly into a square 
heap, sprinkling it with water if it is very dry. If it 
can be turned, in fact, several times before using, so much 
the better. Aim to get it just as fine, well rotted, and 
"mellow" as possible before using it. 

In buying manure, try to get that which is in good 
condition and well rotted and remember that its value 
will depend very largely upon the richness of the food 
fed the animals; therefore manure from a livery stable 
or from a good dairy farm, other things being equal, is 

9 



lo THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

likely to be worth much more than that from scrub farm 
stock. 

Fertilizers. Fertilizer is a general term applying to 
almost any old thing which can be sold in a bag. The 
high-grade, high-priced goods, costing anyvv^here from 
forty to forty-five dollars a ton are, almost Invariably, 
much cheaper than the low-priced goods, costing twenty- 
five to thirty-five dollars a ton. For garden use, a com- 
plete fertilizer, analyzing 4 per cent, nitrogen, 8 per cent, 
of available phosphoric acid, and 8 per cent, of potash, 
will give good results. 

Mixing of Fertilizers. It Is not, however, necessary 
to buy a ready-mixed brand. You can readily mix 
your own with a square-pointed shovel and a screen on 
any tight floor or in any large, tight box. Here Is a 
good mixture: 250 pounds of nitrate of soda, 500 of 
tankage, 700 of acid phosphate, 400 of muriate or sulphate 
of potash; or, for small amounts. In about those propor- 
tions, — say 25 pounds nitrate of soda, 50 of tankage, 75 
of acid phosphate, and 50 potash. This will give ap- 
proximately a 4-8-10 mixture, fully equal to any you 
can buy and considerably cheaper. 

Place the materials In layers on the floor or In a box, 
In a square heap, putting the bulkiest at the bottom, and 
mix thoroughly with a shovel or a hoe; then run through 
a coal sieve or a sand screen. 

H another formula Is preferred. It can be figured out 
easily from the accompanying table, as the figures In the 
third column show the number of pounds of any material 
required to give one per cent. In a ton. If the total 
number of pounds does not figure up to an even two 
thousand, it will make no difference, as It is the number of 
pounds of actual plant food only which is required. 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS ii 

Top-Dressings. A further advantage in buying the 
separate materials instead of the ready-mixed fertilizer is 
that they can be used separately as needed, or to mix with 
manure, or with any other material which may be lacking 
in one or more particular element. (Manure, for in- 
stance, is usually lacking in the percentage of phosphoric 
acid and of potash, in proportion to the nitrogen con- 
tained.) Nitrate of soda, the nitrate in which is im- 
mediately available, is especially valuable as a top-dressing 
for quick growing crops such as salads and most of the 
leaf crops, and a very light application put around the 
cabbages and similar crops and w^orked into the soil 
frequently produces incredible results. Potash is equally 
valuable for plants which are not maturing properly ; espe- 
cially for grapes, small fruits, and such vegetables as 
require a high percentage of potash. 

Lime, which is called a soil "amendment," is not a 
direct fertilizer but is of direct benefit to the soil through 
its physical and chemical effects; it helps to sweeten sour 
soils and to make available the food already in the soil in 
unavailable forms. A good dressing of lime, one to two 
tons per acre, should be applied once every four or five 
years, to land which is at all inclined to become sour. 
The most convenient form to use is raw ground limestone, 
but any good agricultural lime from a reliable source may 
be used. 

Compost, On every place, and especially on places 
where no stock of any sort is kept, a compost heap should 
be started, every spring, as soon as the garden has been 
planted, and all kind of refuse which will rot away should 
be added to it during the summer and fall. Vegetable 
by-products of all sorts such as sods, clumps of earth and 
roots, weeds (that have not gone to seed), roots and tops 



12 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

of plants, leaves, grass clippings, and also street-sweepings, 
dishwater, etc., are available material. Make a frame or 
a pit for the pile somewhere, preferably out of sight, and 
under cover. Hasten decomposition by forking the heap 
over occasionally and by wetting it down when necessary 
with the hose so that it will never be dried out. If it 
seems desirable to give it more "body," mix common 
garden soil through the heap. 

Testing the Soil. You can send samples of your 
soil to your State Experiment Station and have it an- 
alyzed. A better way for practical results is to take five 
to ten pots full of soil, add a little each of nitrate of soda, 
acid phosphate, and muriate or sulphate of potash, and 
combinations of two and of all three of these, to the 
several pots, keeping one of plain soil as a "check," and 
labeling them all carefully. Plant them all with a few 
grains of corn or oats, and note which treatment indicates 
the largest increase of crop. 

To determine if your soil needs lime, get a few pieces 
of litmus paper from the drug store. Select a part of the 
garden where the soil is fresh and moist, make a cut in 
it with a knife-blade, and insert the larger part of the 
strip of paper, pressing the soil up against it. H the paper 
turns red or reddish-pink, it will indicate that lime is 
needed — more in the former case than in the latter. A 
free growth of sorrel is another indication of sour soil. 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 

FERTILIZING MATERIALS 



13 



MATERIAL 



Good Barnyard Manure 

Nitrate of Soda 

Tankage 

Dried Blood 

Cotton Seed Meal .... 
Sulfate of Ammonia . . 

Raw Bone 

Steamed Bone 

Acid Phosphate 

Muriate of Potash 

Sulfate of Potash 

Kinit 



NITROGEN 



•5 
15-50 

5-12 
12-14 

5-7 
20 

4 
1-2 



PHOSPHORIC 
ACID 



'33 
13-3 



20 
25-30 

1 4- 1 61 



POTASH 



SO 

53 

I2.S 



Rule to figure out number of pounds of any fertilizer ma- 
terial required to furnish i per cent, of plant food element 
(Nitrogen, Phosphoric Acid or Potash), for one ton of mix- 
ture — 

Divide 2000 by the percentage of element contained in the 
material. 

Example: How many pounds of Nitrate of Soda (15.5 per 
cent, nitrogen), will be required to supply i per cent, of nitrogen 
in a ton of mixed fertilizer? 2000 -^ 15=5 gives 129 + pounds, 
if 4 per cent, of nitrogen is required, four times that amount, 
or approximately 520 pounds of Nitrate of Soda could be 
used — (though in that case it would be much better to get 
half of the nitrogen (2 per cent., from Tankage or Dried 
Blood). (See page 10.) 

CROPS FOR GREEN MANURING 



SEED 

Buckwheat . . . . 
Crimson Clover 
Red Clover . . . 
Canada Peas . . 
Cow Peas .... 

Millet 

Rye 

Soy Beans . . . . 
Vetch, Winter 
Vetch, Spring . 



WHEN TO sow 

May to August 

Spring or August. . . 
Spring or August. . . 

Early Spring 

June to August . . . 
Spring to August. . 

Spring or Fall 

Tune to September. 

Fall 

Early Spring 



AMOUNT TO sow 



4-6 pks. 

15-20 lbs. 

15-20 lbs. 

1-2 bu. 

1-2 bu. 

1-3 pks. 

6-10 pks. 

1-2 bu. 

60-100 lbs. with I bu. 

grain. 

2/3 pk. 



Crops for plowing under may be sown much thicker than those to 
mature. 



Ill 

HANDLING THE SOIL 

IN the flower garden and the home vegetable garden, 
no less than on the farm, the way the soil Is handled 
has a great deal to do with what you get out of it. 

Besides keeping it rich by adding manure and fertilizer, 
and sweet by the use of lime, it must be kept in a good 
mechanical condition by thorough plowing or spading 
and working over, and also by the addition of humus or 
decayed vegetable matter from time to time. 

Plowing and Spading. It Is always much cheaper 
and better to get a piece plowed, where there is enough 
room for a team to turn, than to attempt to do It or to 
have It done by hand. Have It done by somebody who 
knows his job. The soil should be turned so that It lies 
smoothly, with no sod, trash, stubble, or manure or any 
material of that kind left on the surface to be in the way 
for all your other operations throughout the summer. 

Have your plowing done deep ; usually the soil should 
be turned clear down to the sub-soil, which should give 
a depth of furrow of from four to eight Inches. Some- 
times with a hard sub-soil, a sub-soil plow is used, but its 
place has been taken lately by the use of agricultural 
dynamite used to break up hard and impervious sub-soils. 
This Is not very expensive, and as the soil is benefited for 
years to come. It frequently pays to do it; if you think 
your garden suffers from a "hard-pan" sub-soil, consult a 
local expert In this line. 

H 



HANDLING THE SOIL 



15 



In many small gardens It is necessary to use a fork or 
spade instead of a plow. The job should be done no 
less thoroughly. In loose, loamy soils the spading fork 
with flat tines will be more satisfactory; in stiff soils, the 



^-=5^. 





Fig. S — Spading and trenching. 

spade. The proper method of using the spade or fork is 
to make the cut diagonally, each one running In at one 
edge into the space left by the forkful just removed. 
This makes the work much easier. 

Trenching is practically sub-soiling with the spade 
or fork. As each spadeful is turned over, the sub-soil 
exposed beneath it is spaded up and thrown back into the 
same place in such a manner as to loosen and to break it 
up ; then the next spadeful of surface soil Is thrown over 
it and the operation repeated. 

Fall Preparation. Soil for crops to be planted 
early in the spring, and especially for heavy soils, are 
frequently plowed or spaded late In the fall. In this 
case, the surface should be left worked up roughly or 
thrown in long ridges to leave it the more exposed to the 
action of the elements. 

Harrowing. After the soil Is plowed or spaded, as 
the case may be. It Is necessary to break up and pulverize 
the lumps as finely as possible. Cultivation helps the 
soil fertility, as well before the crops are planted as after. 
(There are several tj^pes of harrow to suit various con- 
ditions of soil, but the important thing is, that whichever 



i6 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

type is used it should be used enough.) The earth should 
be cut up and fined, not only upon the surface, but 
several inches below it. Where the harrow cannot be 
used, the hoe and the broad-tined fork w^ill have to take 
its place. Thoroughly pulverized soil is a vital factor 
towards a successful garden or a fine flower bed. 

Drainage. Soil that is low or wet, and consequently 
*'late" in the spring, should be thoroughly underdrained. 
By all means drain if your soil requires it. Draining a 
half-acre garden will cost from twenty-five to fifty dol- 
lars. The most satisfactory method is to use two and 
one-half inch round drain tile with collars. The deeper 
you place them, the more effective they will be; at three 
feet deep, the lines should be from twenty to thirty feet 
apart, according to the soil and the slope; if you can put 
them four feet deep, thirty to fifty feet apart will do. 
You can do the work yourself or with a digger to help 
you, but you must take great care that the fall of the 
pipes is continuous from the highest point of land to the 
lowest, where the outlet should, of course, be. It is well 
to put a small flat stone under each joint, to prevent the 
possibility of sagging, and a piece of inverted sod over 
it to keep any fine dirt from getting inside of it until after 
the ground has a chance to settle permanently. A 
''level" is, of course, used in laying the tiles to see that 
the proper fall is maintained throughout. 



IV 

SOWING AND PLANTING 

THE first step In making the garden, after the ground 
is prepared, whether it be a geranium bed, a strip 
of the home vegetable garden or a ten acre potato field, 
is to get a smooth, even surface. The purpose in doing 
this, aside from neatness and convenience in planting, is 
to conserve the soil moisture, so that the surface soil will 
dry rapidly on top and will form a dust mulch, which 
prevents the moisture from the soil below from escaping 
into the air, as It does rapidly when a hard crust forms. 
The smoother and finer the surface is made, the more 
perfect this dust mulch Is. 

The implement to do this job with is a steel toothed 
rake. Go over the soil carefully, removing all stones or 
sods that might be In the way later, and use the rake with 
a backward and forward leveling off motion so that just 
as little trash as possible will be dug up. It is best 
usually to rake at right angles to the way you expect to 
plant, as the marks left by the rake teeth will then not be 
confused with your planting marks. 

Drills — Rows — Hills. In drills, the plants are 
grown In a continuous row, usually quite close together 
as onions, beets or carrots. In rows, they are grown at 
regular Intervals, usually considerably less than that dis- 
tance between the rows, and they are cultivated only one 
way — such as cabbage or potatoes. In hills, the plants 
are usually far enough apart to be cultivated both ways, 

17 



1 8 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



so usually the distance is the same in each direction — such 
as cucumbers or squash. 




"ntrhr iiuni'ii |r,'i'i ^^ 




Fig. 6 — Different sorts of drills: (i) single broad drill for large 
seeds; (2) double drill for same; (3) small drill for fine seeds; (4) 
drill for medium-sized seeds. 

Sowing the Seed. The first step is to have a smooth 
and freshly prepared surface. For good results, it is 
necessary that moist soil should be brought in direct con- 
tact with the seed. Most seed sowing is now done with a 
seed drill. If any sowing must be done by hand, or with 
flower seeds sown in the garden, they should be scattered 
thinly along the bottom of a freshly prepared drill, 
pressed down into the soil, if it is at all dry, with the 
edge of a board or the sole of the shoe, and covered 
immediately with moist earth, being slightly pressed down 
again with the surface, to indicate where the row is. 

Depth to Cover. The proper depth for the various 
vegetable seeds is shown in the table on page 40. Most 
flower seeds are very small and should be covered barely 
from sight; the general rule, as nearly as can be given is 
to cover seeds indoors under glass to two or three times 
the depth of their diameter, outdoors to four or five times. 

The proper depth to which to cover seeds will depend 
also upon the season of planting, the character of the soil 
and the weather conditions. Hardy vegetables, such as 



SOWING AND PLANTING 19 

early peas and beets, which must be planted when the 
ground is still wet and cold, should be put comparatively 
near the surface, where the soil is warmer and there is 
still plenty of moisture for germination. Late plantings 
of the same things, say in June, should be put deeper than 
the average depth. In planting in dry soil it is especially 
desirable that the seed be firmed in the soil before cover- 
ing. 

Planting. When plants are to be set out, the ground 
should be just as carefully prepared as for sowing seed. 
Mark the rows and crossrows out carefully and have 
everything in readiness, so that the work, when once 
begun, may be carried through as quickly as possible. A 
cloudy or rainy day or late afternoon is the best time to 
set plants. If the work has to be done in the morning 
or on a bright day, the plants should be protected, if they 
are likely to wilt, w^ith pieces of newspaper placed over 
them and held down by stones or earth or by a screening 
of some sort, such as a wide board placed on edge along 
the row. 

"Hardening Off." Plants removed from the cold- 
frame or hothouse to the garden should be hardened off 
before being set out, especially any which may have had a 
rapid, soft growth. Tall, spindling plants are also always 
to be avoided. Short, stocky specimens, even though 
much smaller, w^ill take hold more quickly and soon make 
up for their deficiency in size. 

Trimming Back. Nearly all plants, and especially 
those with a soft, luxurious leaf growth, will stand the 
operation of transplanting much better if they are 
trimmed back. The roots too, if long and scraggly, 
should be cut back to a compact mass which can be 
handled and inserted into the soil easily. Long, broken 



20 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

roots which must be twisted and bent in the process of 
transplanting, are of no use to the plant. But, in taking 
plants from the flats, be careful not to break off any of 
the roots. Cut them out with a knife or lift them out 
carefully, saving as much earth about them as possible. 

In setting the plants in the soil, dig a hole with the 
hand or with a dibble and in placing the ball of earth 
and roots in it, be careful that the ends of the roots are 
not turned up towards the surface of the soil, or crowded 
in a bunch into a small space. The plants should be set 
deep enough, so that the earth will come about half way 
up the stem, or stalk, and the earth pressed down about 
it very firmly with the fingers and knuckles. It is very 
important to set the plants firm in the soil. Potted plants 
like geraniums, nursery plants like rose bushes or small 
fruits, or even plants being set in the garden like cabbage 
or lettuce, may be gone over with advantage after plant- 
ing and made still more firm by pressing the soil down 
about them with the balls of the feet; this is especially 
desirable, if the soil is at all dry. 

In very dry weather, it is sometimes necessary to use 
water when setting the plants, and when this is done, 
half a pint to a pint as conditions may require, should be 
put in the bottom of the hole before setting the plant in. 
It will be of little or no use to pour the w^ater around on 
the surface after setting the plant. 

Special fertilization is often given when setting out 
plants, either in beds with single specimens or in rows in 
the garden. Tankage or bone meal or a mixture of both 
are good for this purpose, or well rotted manure or hen 
manure may be used. In any case, this extra fertilizer 
should be well mixed with the soil before the plants are 
set out. 



TOOLS AND CULTIVATION 



THERE are a few tools essential to the proper care 
of any garden. Those so fortunate as to have 
large gardens, may, of course, find use for many others 
which we need not mention here. 

The Hand Tools. These few things, however, you 
should include in your outfit — a spade, a spading fork, 
a flat-tined hook, a bow rake, an iron toothed rake, a 





v^ 



\'ll 



Fig. 7 — Spading fork. 



Fig. 8 — Spade 



Fig. 9 — Shovel. 



square pointed shovel, a plow, a trowel, a dibble, a garden 
line, a combination seed drill and wheel hoe, and a scuffle 
hoe. The uses for the first few of these have been men- 
tioned in the instructions for preparing the soil. The 
seed drill, while it save a tremendous amount of labor, 
must, nevertheless, be used with care. First of all it 
must be kept scrupulously clean and dry, and never put 

21 



22 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



away In a wet or dirty condition, or rust will soon prevent 
Its operating accurately. As the size of seeds vary a great 
deal, before being put In use for any particular crop It 
should be carefully adjusted. The best way to do this 
Is to get a long, clean board or sweep a place clean on 
the shed floor where you can sow a few feet of seed and 





Fig. 10 — Reel and 
line. 



Fig. II — Scuffle hoes. Fig. 12 — Iron-bow 

rake. 



see w^hether It Is dropping properly. A great deal of 
trouble will be saved by so planning your garden, that 
seed of approximately the same size and requiring plant- 
ing of the same depth are sown together, so that In plant- 
ing the garden It will be necessary to adjust the maclilne 
as few times as possible. In planting large seeds, such as 






Fig. 1 3 — Dibblers. 



Fig. 14 — Trowel. 



peas or beans which have to go quite deep, the rows may 
be furrowed out first lightly with a hoe or the plow 
attachment to the wheel-hoe, and the seeds then sown 
with the drill In the bottom of this. The trench can be 
filled In Immediately, or after the plants are several inches 
high, at the time of the first hoeing. 

For the first cultivation, after the plants have come up, 



TOOLS AND CULTIVATION 23 

the disc attachment of the wheel-hoe, which shaves close to 
the row without throwing any dirt toward it, or the hoes 
with the shank turned toward the row should be 
used, with the machine running astraddle of the row. 
When the plants get larger, the hoes may be turned the 
other way so that they overlap and the machine run 
between the rows. The rake attachments are also very 
valuable in breaking up the crust where there are no 
small weeds; in this way, the work can be done with 
great rapidity, and it is much easier to do 'this, keeping 
the weeds down when they are just beginning to sprout, 
than to wait until they are an inch or two high and then 
have to go over the garden carefully, doing a good deal 
of the work by hand. Keep the wheelhoe and its attach- 
ments as carefully as you would a sewing machine; keep 
it well oiled and the cutting edges sharp, and do not be 
afraid to take the time and trouble to get just the right 
attachment and the proper adjustment to do the best 
work for the particular job you may have in hand. For 
after you have once succeeded, you will know just what 
to do the next time without wasting any time. 

Cultivation. The chief purpose of cultivation Is to 
conserve the moisture in the soil by maintaining a dust 
mulch. In addition to this, it breaks up and pulverizes 
the soil below the surface, admitting air, and destroys 
weeds. 

Cultivation should begin just as soon as the planting 
has been done. The rows will, or should be, plainly 
marked by the roller on the seed drill or where the soil 
has been pressed down by the back of the hoe after cover- 
ing the seed. Some seeds come up in a few days, but 
others take a much longer period. Do not wait for the 
plant to appear, keep the surface soil stirred continuously. 



24 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

every week or ten days, between the rows and as near as 
possible to the rows of little seedlings coming up. The first 
few cultivations can be quite deep, but as soon as the 
plant roots begin to spread through the soil it should be 
kept nearer the surface, so that they will not be cut off 
or injured. The roots of quick growing plants spread 
very rapidly; corn, for instance, in the course of only ten 
or fifteen days, will in favorable weather have sent out 
roots long enough to touch each other when the hills are 
planted three and a half or four feet apart. 

Hand Weeding. In soils which are fairly free from 
weeds, and even where cultivation is kept up constantly, 
some hand weeding will be necessary to keep the plants 
clean in the rows. Get this done at once. If you attend 
to it as soon as the weeds can be seen, they can be taken 
out very rapidly with a small hand weeder. Also take 




Fig. 15 — Hand weeder. 

the following hints: do this work while the ground is 
soft, as soon after a rain as possible; do not merely pull 
out the weeds but break up every square Inch of soil sur- 
face, thus killing at the start the weeds that have already 
sprouted but are not yet above ground. Just before hand 
weeding, run over the rows with the wheelhoe and bring 
it up as close as possible to the plants, so that no more 
work than is necessary will have to be done by the fingers. 



TOOLS AND CULTIVATION 



25 



Level Culture. It used to be the common practice 
to hill up most row crops and was due largely to the 
fact that instruments suited to level cultivation had not 
yet been introduced. This has now to a very large extent 
been done away with and for most crops, cultivation is 
kept as level as possible, although especially during the 





Fig. 1 6 — Corn and potatoes, with slight hilling. 

latter part of the season of growth, it is desirable in some 
instances to work the soil up towards the plant, such as 
corn and potatoes, making a very low, flat hill at the 
second or third hoeing, and in this way many small weeds 
are smothered out and an extra mulch is placed around 
the roots. In wet soils or very wet seasons, hilling is 
of benefit where it would not otherwise be to advantage. 



VI 

IRRIGATION 

IRRIGATION Is of vital Importance to the complete 
success of the garden. Without sufficient water to 
enable the plant roots to take up the plant food In the 
soil, dissolving It for them, the crops will fall no matter 
how rich the soil may have been made nor how good the 
seed used. Nothing that you can possibly do for the 
garden will provide such certain and good results as the 
installation of some sort of a system for watering or 
irrigating. 

If you have a city water supply, the problem Is a very 
simple one. A three-quarter Inch or an inch pipe laid 
through the garden will not be expensive. If you want 
to you can use ''second-hand" pipe, and If you desire you 
can do most of the work yourself with the use of a 
couple of pipe wrenches. If the garden Is a small one, 
one hose connection will be enough. If you prefer, how- 
ever, for convenience, you may have two or more at 
Intervals of fifty feet which will allow you to cover the 
whole garden with a twenty-five foot hose, along one 
side or through the center of It. As the pipe, which will 
not be wanted during the winter, can be disconnected and 
drained out In the fall, It Is not necessary to put it far 
below the surface of the garden, and In fact it can be laid 
along the top of the ground but It wmU then be In the 
way of the lawn mower and so forth. 

26 



IRRIGATION 27 

Overhead Sprinkling System of Irrigation. 
Watering by hose, while effective, is still not as thorough 
and nowhere near as easy as watering with a regular 
irrigating system. The best system for ordinary purposes 
is that known as the Skinner or "over-head" system. The 
pipes are placed fifty feet apart, and the nozzles which 
distribute the water four feet apart on the pipe. The 
latter cost only five cents apiece. For a large garden a 
combination strainer and turning handle which costs a 
dollar and seventy-five cents or more according to size, 



^aC-l:mfEQf.!&fe^. 



1 m *■ 

li ^a II ' 



Fig. 17 — Turning device and valve for overhead irrigation, 

is convenient; but it is not necessary for small gardens 
with a supply of city water. Where water is supplied 
from a gravity tank the fall must be sufficient to produce 
fifteen pounds or more of pressure at the nozzles. (See 
accompanying tables for pressures at varying heights.) 
The brass spray nozzles throw a stream, under thirty to 
fifty pounds pressure, to a distance of twenty-five feet. 
The nozzle-line pipes are placed upon supports from a 
foot to six feet or more above the ground, as may be 
desirable; upon these supports they may be revolved from 
side to side, each pipe thus covering a strip fifty feet wide. 
It is best to irrigate on a cloudy day or in the after- 
noon, but with the overhead sprinkling system, I have 



28 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

never been able to see any bad results even when w^ater 
was applied in bright sunshine. Water should not be 
applied until the soil begins to get dry, and then it should 
be given a thorough soaking, such as would result from a 
good, thorough rain. It is well to cultivate as soon as 
possible after irrigating, in order that the water applied 
will last as long as possible. Irrigation is also a pro- 
tection against frost, either for sprinkling hardy plants 
early in the morning after they have been touched, or for 
protecting more tender things by keeping the water spray 
turned on continually during the night until after danger 
of frost is over in the morning. 



AMOUNT OF WATER AND TIME REQUIRED FOR 
IRRIGATING 



Pound 






















Pressure 


10 


IS 


20 


25 


30 


3S 


40 


4S 


SO 




Feet 






















Elevation 






















For Tank . 


^3-1 


34-7 


46.2 


S7.8 


69.3 


80.9 


94.2 


104 


II5-5 




One 
























Acre 


27152 


18 


15 


13 


1 1 


10 


9 


9 


8 


8 


Hours 


i-m. 


Gal. 


SI 


17 


18 


S4 


S-2 


42 


23 


S4 


26 


Min. 


Deep 

























For nozzle lines over 150 and up to 300 ft. long, half the 
pipe should be 1", the balance ^". Galvanized pipe is to be 
preferred. 

The discharge of 100 garden nozzles is, approximately, the 
following number of gallons per minute; at 10 lbs. pressure, 
12 gals.; at 20 lbs., 17 gals.; at 30 lbs., 21 gals.; at 40 lbs., 
24 gals. 



VII 
WEEDS • 

TROUBLESOME weeds that persist in gravel or 
earth paths and very often those on lawns or about 
the grounds or in pasture hay and grain crops can be 
controlled by spraying with herbicides. For walks, 
drives, tennis courts, etc., use common salt, either 
sprinkled on freely dry, or with a watering can at the 
rate of one pound to one gallon of hot water. Crude 
carbolic acid, one part to ten to thirty parts water, may 
be used as a spray, provided the mixture is kept well 
stirred up. 

Individual weeds which can be got at without injuring 
other plants near them may be treated with carbolic acid 
pure, or if this is not effective, although it usually will 
be, sulphuric acid — the latter, however, should be 
handled very carefully and only in glass containers. 

Poison ivy and other wild vines should be cut off, pre- 
ferably in mid-summer close to the ground ; the main 
trunk and stems grubbed up, and a strong solution of 
caustic soda poured Into the holes wherever the remnants 
of the vines or roots a.fe visible. 

Weeds In lawns, pastures and grain crops can also be 
controlled by spraying; among those susceptible to the 
sprays are mustard, dandelion, ox-eyed daisy, red topped 
thistle, carrots, parsnip, elder, rag weed and most broad 
leaved succulent rooted weeds. In lawns, spray two or 
three days before cutting and do not mow again until 

29 



30 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

two or three daj^s after spraying. Rain will interfere 
with the effect of the spray and it may have to be re- 
peated. Meadows should be sprayed just before the grass 
begins heading up. With grain crops the first spraying 
should be made before the bloom begins to show and 
again if new ledves begin to develop. Where only one 
spray can be applied it is best to give it just before the 
crop covers the land. The two most satisfactory solu- 
tions for spraying are as follows : Salt solution — com- 
mon salt, 150 pounds, water 50 gallons, covering half an 
acre to an acre. Iron sulphate solution — copperas (iron 
sulphate) 100 pounds, water 52 gallons, will cover one- 
half to one acrec 



VIII 
GRAFTING AND BUDDING 

IT IS often of advantage to have more than one kind 
of fruit growing on a tree or to substitute for an 
unsatisfactory variety one that is better liked. This can 
be done by grafting, if the stock plant is in good healthy 
condition. ^'Budding" Is a similar operation, except that 
in place of the scion or twig used in grafting, a single 
"bud," with a small slice of bark and little or no wood 
attached, is used. Commercially either budding or graft- 
ing is used mostly to propagate varieties that either will 
not come true from seed or are weak growing sorts on 
their own roots. 

Unless one has had experi- 
ence, it is much bet- 
ter to get someone 
who knows how to 
do the work ; but, as 
that Is not always 

possible, and, furthermore, as there is a 
great deal of fun to be had In doing the 
thing for oneself, here are brief direc- 
tions : The scion or cutting Is made from 
a new^, live branch, usually not larger 
than a lead pencil in diameter, having two Fig. 1 8 — Scion 
or three buds on It. They should be ^" ^^ ^^^ 
taken In winter or In very early spring while growth 
is perfectly dormant, and may be stored In sand in the 

31 





32 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

cellar, or any cold place, or buried In the ground until 
wanted. If allowed to shrivel they are useless. The 
graft should be made before the trees start in to active 
growth in the spring. 

The stock should be clean and healthy; if changing 
over a grown tree such as a plum, apple or pear, upon 
which some other variety is wanted, the " cleft graft " is 
used. Cut off square the tops of healthy, young limbs, 
which are preferably two inches or so In diameter; split 






Fig. 19 — Whip graft and budding operation. 

this carefully across the middle and Insert one (or two) 
of the scions, having cut them carefully to a wedge shape 
on one end. Success will depend upon getting the cam- 
bium or living under-bark layer of growth, in both scion 
and stock, held firmly together and protected from decay. 
Each scion must be held firmly In place and the whole 
wound covered over with grafting wax; In applying 
which, as it is sticky, the fingers should be greased with 
tallow. New suckers and sap growths must be kept off 
the stock plants and it should be pruned back quite 



GRAFTING AND BUDDING 33 

severely each year to throw the strength of the tree into 
the new growth. 

Very small stock, such as seedlings one to three years 
old, instead of being split, are cut off diagonally, and the 
whip graft employed. The surfaces of stock and scion 
must match evenly, and a tongue is cut down in each at 
the center so that one may be inserted in the other, thus 
holding them more firmly in place. They are then bound 
tight with raffia or cord and waxed over. 

In budding, a single healthy bud with an elliptical 
section of bark is used instead of a scion and this is 
inserted into a T shaped slit made in the bark of the stock 
tree, where it is bound tight with raffia. Budding is 
usually done in August or early in the spring. 

Grafting Wax can be bought from your seedsman or 
nurseryman ; or made by breaking up and thoroughly 
melting together four parts of rosin by weight, two of 
bees wax, and one of tallow. When thoroughly melted, 
pour into a pan of cold water, and as soon as it hardens, 
work, as you would molasses candy, until the proper con- 
sistency and a light color. 



IX 

TREE REPAIR 

THE injuries to trees are usually abrasions on the 
bark or broken limbs or splits in the crotches of 
trunks or branches. 

The implements needed for ordinary tree surgery are 
a good pocket knife, a mallet and chisel, a sharp saw and 
a can of coal tar or heavy linseed oil or lead paint. 
Cement for making concrete will be necessary in cases 
where large cavities exist. 

In cases of wounds or broken limbs the first thing to 
do is to cut back to sound wood or sound bark. Make 
all the surfaces clean and dry; in cases of limb or branch, 
unless quite large, cut them off quite close to the trunk. 





Fig, 20 — Bracing split tree. 



The wound should then be wiped ofF, clean and dry, and 
painted over thoroughly. 

Splits should be prevented or repaired by tying the 
parts up temporarily with a rope or chain, which may be 

34 



TREE REPAIR 35 

twisted up with a stick or iron bar, to get them close 
together; then drill a hole through each branch, measure 
the distances, and have a bolt made at the blacksmith's 
jointed in the middle, and with a large washer at each 
end. 

Decayed cavities, either at the base of the trunk, or at 
large limbs resulting from wounds formerly neglected, 
should be dug out and all semi-rotted wood chiselled back 
to clean, hard wood; paint this over, and if the cavity is 
large, fill it with cement, being sure that no rotten or 
decayed spot is left underneath it. 



X 

USES OF CONCRETE AND OF IRON PIPE 

THERE are a great many opportunities about the 
average place for advantageously using concrete. 
It can be adapted for a variety of uses from filling holes 
in trees and making foundations, to making garden vases, 
a stone step, a root cellar, or a coldframe. The ingredi- 
ents are cheap, and what you make out of it is practically 
indestructible. You can easily learn to do the work 
yourself, in odd half hours. 

The ingredients required (they will keep indefinitely, 
until you are ready to use them, if stored in a dry place), 
are Portland cement, which comes in paper bags of 95 
pounds net, — clean, coarse builders' sand, and medium- 
sized gravel, crushed stone, or clean, hard cinders. 

All the tools required are a tight floor, platform or 
large box in which to mix, a square-pointed shovel, and 
a hoe, with which to handle and mix the material ; a peck 
or larger measure for measuring, and a couple of pails to 
carry water, or fresh cement in, if it has to be poured 
into forms. 

In making the concrete, these materials are mixed to- 
gether in varying proportions, according to the require- 
ments of the work to be done. The more cement used in 
proportion to the other things used, the stronger the con- 
crete. 

Medium Mixture, For ordinary work such as walls, 

36 



CONCRETE AND IRON PIPE 37 

walks, curbs, small foundations, etc., use i part Port- 
land cement, 2^^ sand, and 5 gravel, by bulk. 

For thin walls, posts, troughs, or any materials which 
must be strong and Impervious, use i part cement, 2 sand 
and 4 gravel. For abutments, foundations, retaining 
walls and other use where bulk rather than great strength 
is the object, use i cement, 3 sand, and 6 gravel. 

In making walks care must be taken to have the 
foundations firm, well drained and even before the top 
is laid down. Except in good stiff soil a foundation 
layer of broken stone or very coarse gravel is desirable, 
if not actually necessary. For a hard smooth surface, or 
to finish off gutters or curbs, mix thirty shovelfuls sharp 
sand to a bag of cement (or about three shovelfuls to each 
ten pounds of cement), and apply before the base has 
hardened. 

Carefully measure out the gravel, sand and cement 
and shovel them over once or twice to get the cement 
fairly well distributed before applying the water. Add 
the latter gradually, working over quickly, until the mass 
is of an even consistency and thin enough to pour, or 
spread, and put into place at once. If the wTt concrete 
is allowed to make its initial "set" it should not be used. 
Forms. For constructing walls of buildings, and for 
many other purposes *'forms" are used. They may be 
readily constructed from ordinary boards, free from 
rough splinters or knotholes. For heavy work plank are 
better as they do not give so readily. In either case brace 
all forms thoroughly, so that they will not bulge under 
the pressure of the wet concrete, which should be tamped 
down firmly into place. It should set for a day or more, 
and then the forms should .be carefully removed. If the 
concrete is to be subjected to use or strain at once, the 



38 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



forms should be left for a longer period. Protect fresh 
concrete from possible freezing. 

In connection with the use of concrete, or even with- 
out it, the use of gas or water-pipe, either new or second- 
hand (which may be bought very cheaply) offers many 
possibilities in the way of repair or construction. You 
can order the pipe cut to any desired lengths, so that by 
the use of "split fittings," which are now made for a 






Split fittings for pipe. 



great variety of purposes, you can put up iron-work that 
does not have to be water-tight, with no other tool than 
a monkey-wrench. Even when regular threaded coup- 
lings are used, two medium sized Stilson wrenches will 
be all the tools required, and they w^ill last a life-time. 
For trellises, supports, columns of all kinds, posts or 
arches in place of wood, gate-ways, bars, fences, railings, 
etc., pipe is practically Indestructible and when painted a 
suitable color makes a very neat appearance. 



XI 
VEGETABLES 

THE planting dates given in the accompanying table 
are an approximate average for New York, Chi- 
cago, and Kansas City. Roughly, each one hundred 
miles difference in latitude will make about a week's dif- 
ference in the opening of the spring season. Another 
method for determining the proper time to sow is to 
divide the vegetables into two general classes, hardy and 
tender. The former class can be sown from the last 
of March to the first of May, or when plum and peach 
trees are in bloom; this class Includes beets, carrots, cab- 
bage, cauliflower, celery, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, 
onions, parsley, parsnips, peas, radish, spinach, salsify, 
turnips and water-cress. 

The second, or tender class, can be sown from last of 
April to first of June, or when apple trees bloom, and 
Includes beans, corn, cucumbers, melons (musk- and 
water-), okra, pumpkins, and tomatoes; and tomato, 
pepper and egg-plant plants. 

A practical method for the small garden Is to separate 
the spring planting into approximately four plantings, as 
indicated in the table, " Planting the Garden." 

Vegetables may also be divided Into three groups, ac- 
cording to their habit of growth, and the cultural re- 
quirements of each are somewhat different. First are 
the " root " crops — beets, carrots, kohl-rabi, leeks, onions, 
parsnips, potato, salsify, turnips. With the exception of 

39 



40 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



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PL^PiCA^C/2H 



VEGETABLES 



41 



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42 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



PLANTING THE GARDEN WEEK BY WEEK 
APPROXIMATE DATES 



VEGETABLE 



April 



NOTE 



Swiss Chard 




Lettuce 


B 


Peas 


A 


Onion Sets 


A 


Turnip 


B 


Cabbage, Early 


A 


Radish 


C 


Spinach 


B 


April 




Cauliflower 


A 


Radish 


C 


Celery 


D 


Leek 


D 


Turnip 


B, A 


Carrot 


A 


Beet 


A 


Onion 


W. E 



April 



Salsify 


W 


Parsnip 


W 


Potato, Early 


A 


Radish 


B 


Cabbage 


A 


Peas 


A, E 


Lettuce Seed 


B,D 


Peas 




April 




Peas 


A 


Radish 


B 


Potato (sprouted) A 


Onion (seedling 


) E 


Carrots 


W 


Beets 


W 


Lettuce, Cos 


A 


Kohl-rabi 


A 



FIRST SATURDAY 



NO. OF 
ROWS 



Giant Lucullus 

Grand Rapids, Wayahead 

Best Early 

White or Yellow 

Early White Milan 

Jersey Wakefield 

Crimson Giant 

Victoria i 



SECOND SATURDAY 

Best Early; Dry Weather.... i 

White Icicle 

Golden Self Blanching 

American Flag 

Petrowski; Golden Ball 2 

Chantenay . 2 

Early Model 2 

White Oueen (3^), Prize Taker 
U'A) _5_ 

THIRD SATURDAY 

Mammoth Sandwich Island.... 4 

Improved Hollow Crown 4 

Irish Cobbler 2 

Crimson Giant i 

Glory of Enkhuisen; Succession 2 

Gradus i 

All Seasons; Iceberg i 

Boston Unrivaled i 

16 
FOURTH SATURDAY 

Royal Salute i 

Crimson Giant; White Icicle.. i 

Irish Cobbler i 

Ailsa Craig; Gigantic Gibraltar i 

Coreless 4 

Columbia 4 

Dwarf White Heart V2 

White Vienna Vz 



13 



SPACE, 
FEET 

1V2 
I 

_iA 



IXI 
IXI 

1x4 



13 

IV2X4V2 

Ij4x45^ 

2X2 
2X2 

3 

2 
2 



27 



2 

2 

2 
2X1 
1x3 

1^x3^/4 



1854 



Suggested Planting Plan for the Early Crops, to Take Four 
Saturday Afternoons' Work. 

NOTES 

A — Crops that will be out of the way in time to be followed by 
others. 

B — Interplanted " companion " crops which will be out of the way 
before those next to them need all the room. 

C — Like above, except that they are planted between plants in the 
row, instead of between rows. 

D — Start in a special bed, for transplanting later. 

E — A good item to increase, as any surplus will find ready sale. 

W — May be stored for winter use. 



VEGETABLES 



43 



PLANTING THE GARDEN — THE LATE CROPS 



VEGETABLE 

May 

Corn, Ey. 
Squash, Sum. 
Potatoes, late 
Lettuce 
Radish 

Bean, Ey. 



May 



May 



May 



NOTE 



E 
E 
E 
A 
A 



A 



Beans, wax 


A 


Beans, lima 




Beans, pole 


W 


Beets 


W 


Carrots 


w 


Peas 


E 


Corn, Ey. 




Tomatoes, Ey 





Tomato 




Cucumber 


X 


Muskmelon 


X 


Beans, lima 


w 


Beans, pole 


E, W 


Lettuce 




Okra 




Watermelon 


X 


Squash 


X 



Corn 


E 


Pepper 


E 


Egg-plant 


E 


Turnip 




Brussels Spts. 


D 


Cauliflower 


D 


Peas Cabbage 


D 


Peas 





VARIETY NO. OF 

ROWS 

FIRST SATURDAY 

Golden Bantam i J^ 

Mammoth White Bush V2. 

Gold Coin (.7), Uncle Sam (3) 10 

Wayahead Vz 

Crimson Globe iVi,), Icicle (^) Yi 
Stringless Greenpod (>4), Giant 
Greenpod ^Vz) i 



14 
SECOND SATURDAY 

Brittle Wax, New Kidney Wax 2 

Fordhook i 

Burger's Stringless, "Sunshine" i 

Dark Stinson 4 

Coreless 4 

Blue Bantam, British Wonder 2 

Golden Bantam, Howling Mob 2 

Bonny Best Y^ 

i6Yi 

THIRD SATURDAY 

Dwarf Giant Y^ 

Davis Perfect Y2 

Netted Gem, Spicy Y2 

Burpee Improved 2 

Giant Podded Pole i 

Brittle-ice Y2 

Klecky's Favorite J/2 

Fordhook Early Y2 

Fordhook Y2 

eYi 

FOURTH SATURDAY 

White Evergreen 

Ruby King 

Black Beauty 

Amber Globe 

Danish Prize 

Dry-weather (Danish Giant).. 
Savoy, Danish Roundhead. . . . 
Blue Bantam, British Wonder 



NOTES 



SPACE, 

FEET 



2x4 

Zyi27 

I 

38^ 



i^xi"^ 

2 

4 
3x354 
1x3 
2yi:i 
2x4 



30 J4 



4 
3 

Zyi2 
4 
3 
4 
4 



23 



2 


4X4 


Y2 


3 


^Ya 

Ya 

1/2 


2^1 Y2 
I 




3x3 



21Y2 



A — Will be removed in time to be followed by some late crop. 

B — Planted as a companion crop between rows. 

D — Sown in seed-bed, to be transplanted later to permanent position. 

E — Good to increase if a surplus for selling is desired. 

W — Any surplus may be kept over for winter use. 

X — If possible, plant far apart from each other; in rows or hills. 



44 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



potatoes any of these may be sown, usually early in April, 
in drills 12 to 18 inches apart. The soil must be rich 
and finely worked in order that the roots may be even 
and smooth. They must be thinned out to stand the 
proper distances apart in the row, which should be 
done if possible on a cloudy day; weeded as often as 
required to keep them perfectly clean ; and frequently 
cultivated. All, with the exception of leeks and potatoes, 
are given level culture. All will be greatly benefited, 
when about one-third grown, by a top-dressing of nitrate 
of soda. 












Fig. 22 — Leaf, root and fruit crops. 

The second group, or " leaf-crops," includes asparagus, 
brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, endive, kale, 
lettuce, parsley, rhubarb, spinach, Whitloof (chickory). 
The quality of most of these depends largely upon their 
making a rapid growth without any check, from the 
seed-bed to the kitchen. They all take kindly to a plenti- 
ful supply of nitrogen, and appreciate a liberal supply of 
barn-yard manure which is usually high in this element. 
They are still further benefited by light top-dressings of 
nitrate of soda, one or more applications being made, 
usually two to four weeks apart, the first a week or so 
after plants have been set out, or after rowed crops have 
been thinned. Sprinkle a very little about each plant 
and work it into the soil with wheel-hoe or hand-hoe. 



VEGETABLES 45 

Where the soil Is not very rich, cabbage, cauliflower, 
celery, and lettuce may be successfully grown by '' manur- 
ing in the hill." 

The third group, the " fruit " crops, include beans, 
dwarf and pole, corn, cucumbers, egg-plant, melons, musk 
and water, okra, peas, pepper, pumpkin, squash, tomato. 
For these vegetables the soil should not be made too rich, 
especially in nitrogenous manures, as there is then a 
tendency to too luxuriant a growth of stalk or vine and 
leaves, and a delay of the maturing of the crop. A shovel- 
ful of rich compost, or a couple of handfuls of tankage or 
cotton-seed meal and bone dust in the hills when they are 
being planted or set out, will help in giving them a quick, 
strong start. Nitrate of soda may be used, but should 
be applied during the early stages of growth. They are 
warmth-loving plants, and nothing is gained by setting 
them out or planting until all danger from late frosts is 
over, and the ground is well warmed up. (Peas, and to 
some extent early beans, are of course an exception.) 

The greatest difficulty in raising the vine crops — 
melons, cucumbers, squash, pumpkins — is to combat the 
striped beetle and the squash or " stink " bug, and in the 
case of squashes, the borers. Where only a few hills 
of each are required, the easiest and most satisfactory 
way of fighting them w^ill be protecting the plants until 
they are well started with bottomless boxes covered with 
mosquito netting or w^ire, or light-grade plant protecting 
cloth. Cracker boxes cut once in two are handy to make 
and use. Look out for the squash vine borer. His 
presence is shown by a pronounced wilting of the leaves 
noticed especially at mid-day. Near the base of the vine, 
slit the stem with a thin bladed knife, dig out the inter- 
loper and cover the wound with soil. 



46 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



SEEDS 



Bean, dwarf 

Bean, pole 

Beets 

Broccoli (plant)* . 

Cabbage (pi.) 

Carrot . 

Cauliflower (plant) 

Celery 

Cucumber 

Egg-plant (pi.) ... 

Endive 

Gourds 

Kohlrabi 

Leek 

Lettuce 

Sweet Corn 

Muskmelon 

Onion 

Oyster Plant 

Parsley 

Parsnip 

Pea 

Pepper (pi.) 

Pumpkin 



Radish 

Spinach 

Squash 

Tomato 

Turnip 

Watermelon 



(pl.) 



LONGEVITY 


GERMINATION 


MATURITY 


3 


4-10 


45-90 


3 


4-10 


65-100 


6 


7-14 


60-120 


5 


4-10 


50-90 


5 


4-10 


70-100 


4 


I0-20 


70-90 


5 


4-IO 


60-80 


8 


12-20 


125-150 


10 


5-15 


60-75 


3 


8-iS 


40-60 


lO 


4-10 


75-100 


6 


5-10 


75-125 


5 


4-8 


65-85 


3 


7-20 


120-150 


5 


4-12 


40-85 


2 


4-10 


80-100 


5 


6-15 


90-120 


2 


7-20 


120-175 


2 


7-20 


I2S-150 


3 


7-15 


90-1 10 


2 


10-20 


100-150 


2 


5-10 


50-75 


4 


8-15 


40-60 


4 


5-12 


100-130 


5 


3-8 


25-50 


5 


7-15 


60-75 


6 


7-14 


100-125 


4 


6-15 


4p-6o 


5 


3-8 


60-75 


6 


6-15 


100-125 



* From 40 to 90 days more must be allowed for growing the 



plants. 



XII 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

ASPARAGUS prefers a sandy, well drained, early 
soil. Make trenches 3 or 4 feet apart and 16 to 
20 inches deep. Tramp In 6 or 8 Inches of well rotted 
manure; cover with 6 or 8 Inches of good garden soil, 
and on this set i or 2 year old crowns, being careful to 
spread the roots out evenly. Fill In, leaving the roots 
some 6 Inches below the surface. In the fall clear off all 




Fig. 2$ — Cross-section to trench for planting asparagus roots. 

tops and weeds, and apply a good coating of manure. 
Apply nitrate of soda In spring and give light cultiva- 
tions. A few stalks for use may be cut second spring. 
(Asparagus beetle and A. " rust.") 

Beans. Well drained, rather light soil. Plenty of 
potash, — w^oodashes good. Hill slightly. Never work 
when foliage Is wet. Plant LImas on edge, with eye 
down, when there Is no prospect of Immediate rain. 
Pole sorts on prepared hills. 

Beets. For continuous supply of good quality plant 
seed and set out plants early In April; plant again about 
May 1st and June ist. Make last large enough to allow 

47 



48 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

for winter supply. May be planted as late as July ist, if 
medium early variety, and seed is well firmed in soil. 
(Scab.) 

Broccoli. Similar to cauliflower. Requires longer 
season. 

Brussels Sprouts. Extra fine. Very hardy. Splendid 
to succeed fall crop of cauliflower, as frost does not 
injure. Sow outside in June, and transplant. If tops 
of stalks are nipped out when sprouts have formed, latter 
will grow larger and more even in size. (Root-maggot; 
cabbage-worm ; club-foot. ) 

Cabbage. Rich deep soil, well limed. Start plants 
under glass. Sow late crop June ist to July ist in open 
field. Thin out to 3 or 4 inches. Transplant latter 
part of July. (Insects, see Brussels sprouts.) 

Cauliflower. Similar to cabbage. Extra fine quality. 
Not quite so hardy. Rank feeder and must have plenty 
of moisture w^hen heads are forming. Keep heads white 
by tying together leaves to protect from sun and rain. 
Use as soon as ready. (Insects, see Brussels sprouts.) 

Carrots. Fine deep soil. Late crop may be sown in 
June. Seedlings very small, keep carefully weeded. 

Celery. Moist, well drained soil or water-supply in 
case of drouth. Early crop started under glass. Late 
about April ist, inside or out. In either case transplant 
as soon as large enough, cutting back tops, and long 
roots. For early crop set out in rows 3 or 4 feet apart, 
level culture or in shallow trench. As they grow, draw 
earth in about stalks, to hold upright. In cultivating 
work earth up tow^ards row and, as the first of it gets 
about large enough to use, bank it up with a spade so 
that the stalks are entirely covered and will blanch ready 
for use. Boards or short drain-tile may be used in place 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 49 

of the earth bank. In the latter case the same tile may 
be used several times during the season. Sometimes the 
plants are set 8 to 12 inches apart each way, so that they 
hold each other upright and blanch themselves to some 
extent, being finished off by trenching or storing. This 
method should be attempted only when the soil is very 
rich, and an abundance of water may be given during dry 
w^eather. For the winter supply set plants in June or 
July, give level culture until about mid-August. Then 
draw earth up as required to hold the stalks upright. 
For the winter supply, pi-ovide boxes about a foot wide 
and nearly as deep as the celery is high. Three or four 
inches of sand, wet, in bottoms of boxes. Pack the celery 
in close, standing upright, with whatever earth adheres 
to roots in taking up. Store boxes in dark, dry, cold 
place where temperature will not go more than five or six 
degrees below freezing. First lot will be ready about 
Christmas ; for succession store from open at two or three 
different times, two weeks or so apart; the last being just 
before severe cold weather, as a few degrees of frost will 
not injure the outside crop. Never handle while wet or 
frozen. 

Corn. If started under glass, do not set out until ten 
days or so after it is safe to plant outside. Frequent 
shallow cultivation. For continuous supply plant fre- 
quently and use succession varieties, to mature one after 
the other, such as Golden Bantam, Howling Mob, and 
White Evergreen. Try planting your sweet corn in 
drills, 3 or 4 feet apart, with the stalks 10 or 12 inches 
apart. Many people find this more satisfactory than the 
old hill system. 

Cucumbers. Do not set out started plants until after 
arrival of settled warm weather. For either plants or 



50 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

seeds prepare special hills. Dig out 6 to 8 inches of soil, 
tYz to 2 feet square, and incorporate a couple of forkfuls 
of good rich compost. A pint of tankage or cotton-seed 
meal in addition to this will be good to use. Mix thor- 
oughly with soil in the bottom of the hole, keeping it two 
inches or so below the surface. Make the " hill " about 
level with the soil, or slightly raised in wet soil or season. 
Keep off the bugs by mechanical protection with boxes, 
sifted ashes or landplaster, or by kerosene emulsion, to- 
bacco or other sprays. After the vines begin to run the 
bugs usually are not very troublesome. (Bugs, blight, 
wilt.) 

Egg-plant. Start under glass, and transplant twice, 
second time preferably into pots, and get as large and 
sturdy plants as possible to set out. Give rich soil and 
plenty of water. Keep off the potato-bugs with arsenate 
of lead and hand picking — foliage too tender for Paris 
green. 

Endive. Salad plant, most grown for fall use, sown 
in June or July and transplanted. Must be blanched by 
tying up leaves, or by placing two wide boards, A -shape, 
over the row. Do not handle when wet. 

Kale. For fall use give same treatment as late cab- 
bage. Improved by frost. May be left out and cut as 
needed even after first snows. Siberian kale is sown in 
September and wintered over like spinach. 

Kohl-rabi. May be started early and transplanted, but 
usually is sown directly outdoors. Grows rapidly; use 
when very young, i}^ to 2 inches in diameter. Sow 
small amount frequently for succession crops. 

Leek. Start in seed-bed before the first of May; trans- 
plant in late June to heaviest soil available. Should be 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 51 

hilled up gradually, with each cultivation, to blanch lower 
part of stalk. 

Lettuce. For first crop set out plants started under 
glass. About April ist begin to sow outdoors, planting 
every two or three weeks for continuous supply. Middle 
of May to August sow hard-heading, heat-resisting sorts, 
such as Deacon or All Seasons, New York or Brittle-Ice. 
In August sow butter-head and loose-head types again for 
fall and frame use, Grand Rapids and Big Boston being 
good. " Cos " lettuces require tying to blanch properly. 
Lettuce should be grown as rapidly as possible, using rich 
soil and nitrate of soda. 

Melons. Same conditions as cucumbers. If soil is at 
all heavy, add sand and leaf mold to the compost, making 
hills 3 feet or more square. 

Melons, — Water. In northern states use early varie- 
ties, preferably start under glass to get longer bearing 
season. Quick, sandy soil and plenty of heat are chief 
requirements. With limited space plant near edge of 
garden and pinch back main vines. 

Okra. Give rich soil and thin out when well started, 
or seeds may be planted in hills, and thinned to one 
plant. Plants are quite ornamental. Pods not needed 
for soups or stews may be dried and used in winter. 

Onions. Green or bunch onions are grow^n from 
" sets " or small onions, or from one of the perennial 
sorts, and used while small. Keep earth drawn up to- 
ward the stems. The seedlings started under glass in 
February or March set out in April or early May, cut- 
ting the tops and roots back. The seedling plants should 
be trimmed back once or twice while growing. Main 
winter crop may be grow^n either from black seed sown in 



52 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

the open, or from transplanted seedlings. Soil should be 
rich and very finely prepared. Plant as early as possible. 
Give absolutely clean culture especially w^hile small. 
Gather when tops wither and die down; put in broad 
rows or windrows to dry in the sun for a few days; and 
then spread out in airy place under cover, not more than 
three or four inches thick. Before severe freezing store 
in frost-proof cellar or shed. (Maggots, thrips, and 
blight.) 

Parsley. Soak seed in warm water a day before plant- 
ing. Two or three feet of row will give a large supply. 
A few plants can be taken up, cut back, put in a pot or 
box for use in kitchen, during winter. 

Parsnips. Thin to two or three inches while small. 
Improved by frost. Store part of crop in sand in cellar 
and leave part in ground for spring use. 

Peas. Soil should not be too rich. Wrinkled sorts 
are better than smooth in quality — make only one small 
planting of former. Make several plantings to secure a 
constant supply. Late plantings two or three inches deep 
in heaviest soil available. Small application of nitrate of 
soda made early will not delay maturity of crop. Dwarf 
sorts sometimes grown in beds of 3 or 4 rows, 6 to 8 
inches apart. Early sorts, sown in August, usually ma- 
ture before frost. 

Peppers. Culture in general same as for egg-plant, 
but grow larger. 

Pu7npkin. Sugar and pie varieties good for table use. 
(See squash.) 

Potato. Soil should be deep and mellow. For extra 
early crop start a peck or so of tubers inside, cutting 
lengthwise to good sized pieces with two or three eyes, 
and place on end in a flat of coarse sand, half covering up. 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 53 

Keep moist. Set out with as many roots as possible and 
cover sprouts two inches or so deep. For main crop, cut 
good sized seed to one or two strong eyes, with as much 
of the tuber as possible to each, and plant 12 inches or so 
apart in drills 28 to 36 inches apart. Cover 4 inches 
deep, applying some fertilizer in the drill mixed w^ith the 
soil. Cultivate frequently, quite shallow after plants are 
10 inches or so high. Hill up moderately as vines begin 
to spread. Do not use fresh manure or lime. (Potato- 
bugs and blight.) 

Radishes. Sow small quantities frequently. Little 
land-plaster of g^^psum worked into soil improves quality. 
Avoid fresh manure. 

Rhubarb. Usually planted from roots. Old clumps 
may be separated Into several parts, and planted in fall or 
early spring. Nitrate soda applied very early in the 
spring, is very effective. Keep seed-stalks broken off. 

Sea-Kale. Start from either seed or pieces of roots; 
transplant yearling plants 3 feet apart each way. In fall 
after frost takes leaves, cover each crown with a shovelful 
of clean sand, and put on 8 inches or so of soil over this 
to blanch the spring growth. After this is cut, shovel 
off the earth and sand, and cultivate to induce growth to 
store up energy for next season's growth. 

Spinach. For spring planting, drouth-resisting sorts, 
or New Zealand. (Seed of latter should be soaked before 
planting.) For spring, sow in September and winter 
over, with mulch. Swiss Chard has largely taken the 
place of spinach, because one planting w^ill last for the 
whole season, successive cuttings of the leaves being made. 

Salsify. (Vegetable Oyster.) Same culture as pars- 
nips. Deep rich soil finely prepared. 

Squash. For early crop, use bush or scollop varieties. 



54 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Prepare hills as for cucumbers. Plant extra hills of early 
sorts, where late are to go, as " traps " for beetles and 
borers. 

Tomato. Start under glass and transplant twice, pre- 
ferably to pots second time. Manure or compost In hill 
unless soil Is very rich. One or two applications of 
nitrate of soda, given early. Keep plants well tied up, 
and most of the suckers cut or rubbed off. (Cut-worms; 
tomato or *' horn " worms; black rot.) 

Turnips. Get a succession of crops by frequent plant- 
ings and by using succession varieties. 
Plant In July for winter crop. Thin 






II out when small. 

Plant Supports. Peas, pole-beans, 
and tomatoes require some means of 



jl support, to keep them off the ground. 

~" For beans and tomatoes ordinary birch, 

alder, or cedar poles are ordinarily 
used, trimmed rough to give the vines 
Fig. 24 — Trellis of a chancc to catch. A better method 

2x4 scantling and . , r 1 i 1 

lath for plant sup- IS to make supports or lath and scant- 
^°^ ' ling, (Fig. 24). Where brush cannot 

readily be obtained for peas, hen wire, chicken wire, or 
prepared wire trellis, held In place by wooden or Iron 
pipe posts, may be used, and If well cared for will last 
for years. 



XIII 
FLOWERS 

IN making flower beds select a place with naturally 
good drainage, or else provide artificial drainage (see 
Chapter III). The beds or borders should also be con- 
structed where they will receive a bountiful supply of 
sunshine, or, where this is impossible, plants adapted to 
more or less shade should be selected. Unless the place is 
naturally well drained, the individual beds should be dug 
out to a depth of i8 to 24 inches, and put a layer of 
broken stone or brick, plaster rubbish or some similar 
rough material, several inches thick, in the bottom. 
" Borders " are merely long narrow beds, made usually 
along drives or walks, around the edge of the lawn, or 
inside of the shrubbery borders. The beds should be 
thoroughly forked or spaded up, and thoroughly enriched, 
old, fine manure being the best material for this purpose. 
Beds for annuals should be deeply dug and prepared each 
spring, and beds of hardy perennials should be dug up 
each spring as thoroughly as possible without disturbing 
the roots of the plants. Bone flour and bone dust are 
both very good, as they are easy to handle and very effec- 
tive. Mixed together and used with a generous supply 
of woodashes they make a complete fertilizer that gives 
immediate effect and also lasts a long time. 

Many of the annuals are planted where they are to 
grow, but a number of them, such as cosmos and salvia, 
which require a longer season to bloom, it is much better 

55 



56 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

to start under glass. Perennials are usually bought from 
the nursery-man in one or two year plants, but many of 
them can easily be started at home, either in the cold- 
frame, or outdoors in early spring, or in early fall, — 
August or September. In the latter case the seed-bed is 
usually shaded. They are grown on for a season, being 
thinned out or transplanted to a few inches apart each 
way, and then set in their permanent positions. Most 
flower seeds are very small: the seed bed whether under 
glass or outdoors should be made of prepared soil and 
finished off very finely on top; if outside it should be pro- 
tected from drip or beating rains. Sow the seed very 
thinly, barely covering it from sight, and press down 
firmly. Give the seed-bed a thorough soaking the day 
before planting. Or flower seedlings may be started in 
'^ flat " as described on page 4. In any case, if the 
seedlings come up thickly, thin them out as soon as large 
enough. Those which are wanted to grow in bushy form, 
such as snapdragon, salpiglossis or verbena, should be 
pinched back a third or so to induce lateral growth. 

Making Cuttings. Many flowers are propagated from 
" cuttings," or short pieces of stem or shoots of the plant, 
two inches or more in length, which are induced to 
form roots by placing them in moist sand or water. The 
usual test for the proper condition of the wood is to bend 
the shoot to be used between the fingers: if it snaps, it is 
probably all right to use, — if it bends or buckles up, with- 
out breaking, it is either too soft or watery, or too old 
and tough. The cutting should be cut off clean, pre- 
ferably at or near a joint, or just below or above it; the 
proper condition is usually found in the new growth or 
terminal portion of the shoot ; nearly all the leaves should 
be taken off, and those remaining trimmed off or cut 



FLOWERS 



57 



back (Fig. 27). A flatful of clean, coarse sand 

such as builders use, kept moist but not soaking 

wet, will do to root the cuttings in. They should 

be inserted about half way, the sand firmly pressed about 

them, and shade given from direct 

sunlight for about a week. The 

temperature should be kept from 50 

to 55 degrees at night if possible; 

if about 10 degrees or so of bottom 

heat can be given in addition, so 

much the better. Where only a 

few cuttings are to be rooted, what 

is known as the saucer system is 

used. The sand is put in a glazed 

earthen ware dish, 2 inches or so ^^f- ^s — Geranium cut- 

j ^ iiiv,in„o wi ovj j^jj^g ready for propa- 

deep, and kept constantly wet to ^^^^"^ ^°''- 
the consistency of mud ; the cuttings need not be shaded ; 
the temperature may be warmer than by the other method. 
When the roots are from a quarter to a half an inch long, 
which will be in from ten to twenty-five days, place the 
cuttings singly in small flower pots, or several near the 
edge in a larger pot, of finely prepared soil. Give one 






FiR. 26 



" Crocking " in flower pot to provide good drainage. 



good watering, but not a soaking, and then merely wet 
the foliage for a week or so until the cuttings begin to 
get established. Keep them shaded from the direct sun- 
light. After that, water as needed, and when the roots 



58 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

begin to fill the pots, and while they are still in a white 
and growing condition, shift to a size larger pot. The 
pot should be filled not quite full of earth, and the re- 
potted plant should be set a little deeper than it w^as in 
the former pot. Pots of four or five inches or so in 
diameter should be crocked ; that is, a piece of broken 
pot, coarse siftings or something similar placed over the 
hole in the bottom to insure perfect drainage (Fig. 29). 

Propagation of Perennials. Many of the hardy 
perennials which grow in clumps may be increased by 
" division " or separating the clumps up into smaller 
pieces and planting these. Some will separate readily by 
the fingers; others will require cutting with a knife, leav- 
ing at least one good strong bud or sprout to each piece. 
This work should be done in the fall or very early in 
the spring, before much growth has been made. While 
the roots are out of the soil the beds should be enriched 
and forked over before they are replaced. 

Bulbs and Bulbous Plants, These are of two classes; 
the spring-flowering bulbs and hardy lillis which are 
planted in the fall to bloom the following season, and the 
spring-planted bulbs which bloom during the summer and 
fall. The fall bulbs are planted usually soon after the 
first hard frost. (For directions, see Chapter XVI.) The 
beds must be well drained and sufficiently rounded up so 
that no water will rest on them, during the winter. As 
severe weather approaches, about the middle of November, 
they should be mulched. Most of these bulbs remain in 
the ground after planting for several years without fur- 
ther attention. A number of them will become " natural- 
ized " and increase and last indefinitely. The spring 
bulbs, planted from April to June, require wintering over 
in some frost-proof place, such as the house cellar. When 



FLOWERS 59 

the leaves die down in the fall, take the bulbs up and 
store temporarily in an empty frame or an open shed to 
dry off thoroughly. Then pack away in flats or boxes, 
carefully labelled, to use again next spring. 

Window Boxes. These may be bought or made in 
any size convenient for the place in which they are to be 
fitted, but the depth should not be less than 6 inches and the 
width is usually 8 to 12. Cypress is the best wood to 
use, but pine or other material will do. If the box can 
be lined with zinc or copper its life W\\\ be greatly pro- 
longed. Provision s'hould be made for drainage. The 
self-watering boxes on the market save a great deal of 
trouble in taking care of the plants. In the winter, 
where the climate is not too severe, the boxes may be filled 
with hardy evergreens, vincas, etc., after the summer 
flowers are killed. Otherwise the boxes should be emp- 
tied out and put away until wanted again in the spring. 

Insects and Diseases. Most of the insects and diseases 
from which the various flowers suffer are identical or 
similar to those attacking vegetables. They will be 
found listed under the plants attacked, in Chapter XVIII. 

ANNUAL FLOWERS* 

BY COLORS 

IV kite. Ageratum ; Allysum ; China Asters ; Convolvulus major ; 

Dianthus; Lavatera alba; Malope grandflora alba; Mirabilis 

longiflora alba; Phlox; Stocks. 
Yellow and Orange. Calendula officinalis; Eschscholtzia Cali- 

fornica; Hibiscus Africanus; Thunbergia ; Zinnia. 
Blue and Purple. Ageratum Mexicanum; Browallia Czernia- 

kowski; Centaurea Cyanus; China Asters; Convolvulus 

minor; Gilia achilleaefolia; Iberis umbellata ; Lobelia Eri- 

nus; Phlox; Salvia; Verbena. 

* See catalogue descriptions for varieties. 



6o THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Red and Rose-red. Clarkia; Convolvulus tricolor; Dianthus; 
Gaillardia; Ipomoea; Papaver (Poppy); Phlox; Salvia; 
Stocks; Verbena; Zinnia. 

BY HEIGHT 

Plants 6" to i //. Ageratum; Alyssum; Godetia; Gypsophila 
muralis; Centaurea Cyanus; Convolvulus minor; Eschscholt- 
zia crocea; Godetia; Gypsophila muralis; Iberis affinis; 
Lobelia; Mesembryanthemum crystallinum; Mimulus; Phlox; 
Portulaca; Schizanthus pinnatus; Sedum caeruleum; Silene 
Armeria; Silene pendula ruberrima; Stocks; Verbena. 

Plants I /o 1 3/2 ft. Ageratum; Browallia Czerniakowski; Cal- 
andula sulphurea; Chrysanthemum carinatum; Convolvulus 
minor; Dianthus; Elsholtzia cristata ; Eschscholtzia Cali- 
fornica; Gaillardia picta; Iberis amara; Lupinus nanus; 
Papaver; Petunia; Phlox; Salvia Horminum; Schizanthus. 

Plants lYz to 2 ft. Adonis aestivalis and autumnalis; Amaran- 
tus; Calendula; Calliopsis; Centaurea Cyanus; Delphinium; 
Gaillardia picta; Helichrysum; Ipomoea coccinea; Linum 
grandiflora; Lupinus; CEnothera Drummondi ; Papaver 
Mephisto; Zinnias. 

Plants 2 to -^ ft. Adonis aestivalis; Ageratum Mexicanum; 
Amarantus; Calendula; Calliopsis; Centaurea Cyanus; Cen- 
taurea Americana ; Centauridium Drummondii ; Chrysanthe- 
mum; Clarkia; Cleome; Cyclanthera; Datura fastuosa; 
Datura Cornucopia; Helianthus; Helichrysum; Hibiscus 
Africanus; Hibiscus Golden Bowl; Impatiens; Lupinus; 
Mirabilis Jalapa; Papaver; Salvia coccinea; Salvia farina- 
cea; Xeranthemum; Zinnia. 

Plants over ^ ft. Adonis autumnalis, Helianthus; Ricinus. 

ANNUALS 

In the following descriptions the first two figures after the names 
of the flowers indicate the distance apart for planting. The third 
and fourth figures indicate the height of the plants. NOTE — C. 
Flowers especially for cutting. S^ Flowers thriving in partial shade. 
P. Flowers that should be started early under glass, or purchased 
from the florist. 

While moct of these can be sown in the open ground in May 
or early June to flower the same year, quicker results will be 



FLOWERS 6i 

had if they are started early In flats, in the hotbed or window, 
and transplanted. With some (marked " P " above) it is quite 
necessary to do this. With annuals especially it is important 
to keep the floivers cut off before ripening seed if a long season 
of bloom is wanted. 

African Daisy — 6-10 in.; 12-15 ^"'J color rich, various; flowers 

June to frost. New profuse flowering plants, good for beds 

and borders. 
Ageratum — 6-12 in.; 12 in.; color blue, white; flowers June to 

frost. Popular old-fashioned plants for edging. P. 
Aster — 12-24 in.; 18-30 in.; color various; flowers July-Sept. 

Protect from aster beetle by hand picking and Paris Green. 

P. C. 
Bachelor's Button — 6-10 in.; 15-24 in.; color blue, white, pink; 

flowers July. Old favorite for borders. S. C. 
Balsam — 15-20 in.; 10-18 in.; color various; flowers June-Sept. 

Use in foreground, where individual flowers will show. 
Calendula — 12-18 in.; 18-24 ii^-j color orange, yellow; flowers 

June to frost. Very free flowering; masses or borders. 
Calliopsis — 8-10 in.; 12-18 in.; color yellow (orange-brown); 

flowers June-Sept. Of very quick growth, and free flowering. 

C. 
California Poppy — 6-8 in.; 12 in.; color orange, yellow; flow- 
ers August. Sow early. Beautiful in solid beds. Fine new 

varieties. 
Candytuft — 4-12 in.; 6-18 in.; color white, crimson carmine; 

flowers June-Sept. Good for solid masses of color, especially 

white. C. 
Castor Bean — 24-36 in.; 50-90 in.; color foliage; flowers July 

to frost. Very rapid grower; screening and tropical effects. 

S. 
Chrysanthemum — 12-18 in.; 12-36 in.; color various; flowers 

August-Oct. Very easily grown and very showy. 
Clarkia — 8-10 in.; 18 in.; color white, rose, purple; flowers 

June-Sept. Bright daisy-like flowers, pretty foliage. C. 
Cockscomb {Celosia) — 8-18 in.; 6-18 in.; color white, red, yel- 
low, purple; flowers June to frost. Satisfactory borders, 

especially for long lines of color. 
Cornflower — 8-12 in.; 12-40 in.; color, white, blue, lilac; flow- 



62 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

crs June-Aug. Greatly improved. One of the best blue 
flowers. C. 

Cosmos — 24 in.; 2-8 ft.; color white, pink, red; flowers August 
to frost. One of the most beautiful of annuals. Start early. 
P. C. 

Globe Amaranth — 10-15 in.; 18 in.; color pink; flowers July. 
Also for borders and masses. C. 

GoDETiA — 8-12 in. ; 12-24 in. ; color red, white ; flowers July-Oct. 
Good for masses. C. S. 

Gourds — 12-24 in.; 5-15 ft.; color colored fruits; flowers July 
to frost. Climbers. Fruits of various shapes and colors. 

Gypsophila — 6-15 in.; 12-24 in.; color white; flowers June to 
Sept. Valuable for bouquets. Make several plantings. C. 

Larkspur Annual — 6-12 in.; 18-36 in.; color white, blue, pink; 
flowers June-July. Rich colors. Another of the best blue 
flowers. C. 

Lavatera — 8-12 in.; 3-6 ft.; color rose; flowers July. Another 
good screening plant. 

Lobelia — ^4-8 in.; 6-18 in.; color blue, white; flowers June- 
Sept. Beautiful for low borders and edges; also in mass. S. 

Love-Lies-Bleeding — 10-15 in.; 3-5 ft.; color yellow to scarlet; 
flowers June-July. Good for screens and masses. Will self- 
sow. 

LovE-iN-A-MiST — IO-I2 in.; 12-42 in.; color white-blue; flowers 
June-Sept. Old favorite; good for borders. 

Lupine — 4-8 in.; 12-24 ii^-j color white, blue, pink; flowers 
June. New varieties give a range of colors. C. S. 

Marigold — 6-18 in.; 10-36 in.; color pale gold to orange; flow- 
ers July to frost. Great variety. Dwarf sorts good for edg- 
ings. 

Mignonette — 6 in.; 12-18 in.; color golden to reddish yellow; 
flowers July-Sept. Prized for its delicious fragrance. Sec- 
ond planting in August. C. 

Moonflower — 6-18 in.; 15-30 ft.; color white, blue; flowers 
August to frost. Most beautiful annual climber. Start under 
glass. P. 

Morning Glory — 4-12 in.; 10-20 in.; color various; flowers 
July-Sept. Flowering annual for quickly covering fences, etc. 

Nasturtium — 5-12 in.; 12-60 in.; color various; flowers July to 



FLOWERS 63 

frost. Wonderful improvements, especially in the foliage. 
C. S. 

NICOTIANA — 8-12 in.; 3-5 ft.; color white, red; flowers July to 
frost. Unique, pretty flowers with a jessamine-like fragrance. 

Pansy — 6-8 in.; 6 in.; color various; flowers May to frost. Get 
young, small plants for best results. P. C. 

Petunia — 8-12 in.; 12-24 in.; color white to claret, mixed; 
flowers July to frost. Wonderfully free-flowering and showy. 
S. 

Phlox Drummondii — 8-12 in.; 12-36 in.; color various, brilliant; 
flowers July to frost. • Splendid for solid beds, or medium 
height bright edges. 

Pinks {Dianthus) — 5-8 in.; 10-18 in.; color white to rose; 
flowers August to frost. One of the most satisfactory of all 
summer annuals. C. 

Poppy — 4 in.; 6-10 in.; color white to scarlet; flowers July- 
Sept. Will not transplant well. Most effective in mass beds. 

PoRTULACA — 4-6 in.; 6-10 in.; color white, yellow, red shades; 
flowers July to frost. Cheery, old-fashioned favorites; full 
sun, sandy soil. 

Salpiglossis — 6-12 in.; 12-24 ^n.; color various; flowers June- 
Sept. Wonderful velvety texture and delicate pencilings. C. 

Salvia — 6-12 in.; 12-36 in.; color scarlet; flowers August to 
frost. For mass effects the most vivid of all red flowers. P. 

SCHIZANTHUS — 8 in.; 24 in.; color mixed — yellow to lilac; flow- 
ers July to August. Good for masses when blossoms are 
scarce. 

Stock — 6-12 in.; 12-24 ^^-J color various; flowers June-Sept. 
Beautifully formed; delicate shades; very fragrant. C. 

Sunflower — 24-36 in.; 3-7 ft.; color yellow; flowers August- 
Sept. Very rapid growing; useful for screening fences, etc. 

Sweet Alyssum — 4-8 in.; 8-10 in.; color white; flowers May to 
frost. Still the most popular of edging plants. S. 

Sweet Pea — 4-8 in.; 2-6 ft.; color various; flowers June-Sept. 
For best results start inside in pots, and set out in April. C. 

Thunbergia — 4-10 in.; 3-8 ft.; color white, yellow, orange; 
flowers July-Sept. Good for low trellises and vases. 

ToRENTiA — 6-12 in.; 8-15 in.; color blue, white; flowers July- 
Sept. Unique; good for vases and hanging baskets. 



64 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Verbena — ia-i8 in.; 6-9 in.; color various; flowers July to 
frost. One of the brightest, cheeriest and most free-flowering. 

Zinnia — 8-12 in.; 12-24 ii^-j color various, brilliant; flowers 
July to frost. Brilliant masses of color; dwarf, red sort 
splendid for borders. 

BIENNIALS 

These should also be sown every year, that flowers for the 
year following may be provided. They may be started in May 
or June and transplanted later to their permanent places. Fox- 
glove and other shortlived perennials, are best treated in the 
same way. 

Campanula — 8-12 in.; 18-36 in.; color white, blue, pink; flowers 
June-August. Still popular for both beds and borders. 

Forget-me-not — 6 in.; 6-12 in.; color blue, white; flowers April 
to July. The best blue edging plant; the most dainty. S. 

Foxglove — 10 in.; 12-36 in.; color pink, white, various; flowers 
June. Very easily grown; old favorites for the border. 

Hollyhock — 12-18 in.; 3-7 ft.; color white, yellow, scarlet, rose; 
flowers August-Sept. Especially valuable against high walls. 
Gorgeous colors. 

Sweet William — 6-12 in.; 12-18 in.; color white, pink, red; 
flowers July-August. Still one of the very best border 
plants. C. 

Wall Flower — 6 in.; 12-30 in.; color brown, yellow; flowers 
July-Sept. Fragrant. Early sorts may be treated as an- 
nuals. C. 

PERENNIALS 

Many of these, if sown early under glass, will flower the first 
year — some, even from seed sown in the open. They should be 
grown to fair size in the seedbed and then transplanted to 
permanent quarters. The border of hardy perennials should be 
one of the most beautiful spots in the garden. 

Alyssum {Saxatile) — 6-12 in.; 12 In.; color golden yellow; 

flowers May-June. Especially useful around rock-work, 

bases, etc. 
Aquilegia — 10 in.; 12-36 in.; color various; flowers June- July. 

Greatly improved. Very graceful. C. 



FLOWERS 65 

Adonis — 6 in.; 12 in.; color yellow; flowers May-June. Good 

early flower for border. 
Anemone — 12 in.; 12-36 in.; color white to rose; flowers August 
to frost. Should have a place in every garden; extremely 
beautiful. C. 
Bellis — 4-6 in.; 6-8 in.; color white, pink, red; flowers April- 
July. Low-growing, beautiful little daisies, extremely at- 
tractive. 
Bleeding-Heart — 12-18 in.; 24-30 in.; color purple, pink, white; 
flowers May-June. Peculiar heart-shaped flowers in grace- 
ful sprays. S. C. 
Candytuft {Iberis) — 6 in.; 9 in.; color white; flowers May- 
June. A hardy form of the annual above. 
Chrysanthemum — 12-18 in.; 24-40 in.; color various; flowers 
August to frost. If started early, will flower first year. C. 
Coreopsis — 12-15 in.; 24-36 in.; color golden yellow; flowers 

June to frost. Free-flowering, for the hardy border. C. 
Dahlia — 24-36 in.; 2-4 ft.; color various; flowers July to frost. 

Easily grown; likes very rich, heavy soil. C. 
Four o'Clock — 10 in.; 30 in.; color yellow, white, red; flowers 

July-August. Midsummer; good for border. 
Gaillardia — 10-12 in.; 18-24 i^. ; color yellow, crimson; flowers 

July to frost. If sown early, will bloom first year. C. 
Heliopsis — 8-15 in.; 3-4 ft.; color yellow; flowers July-Sept. 

Good for mass effects in background. 
Helianthus — 2-4 ft.; 2-10 ft.; color yellow; flowers August to 

frost. The improved types are truly gorgeous. C. 
Iris — 12-18 in.; 18-30 in.; color various; flowers May-July. 

Some of the shades beautiful as orchids. C. 
Larkspur — 12-18 in.; 3-4 ft.; color blues; flowers July-Sept. 

Best blue flowers for the border. 
Monkshood — 10-15 in.; 36 in.; color blue-white; flowers July- 
August. Good for borders, but poisonous. 
Peony — 24 in.; 24-36 in.; color red, pink, white; flowers May- 
June. Most showy of all border plants. P. C. 
Phlox (Hardy) — 12-18 in.; 12-36 in.; color various; flowers 
July-Sept. Permanent and satisfactory border plants. P. C. 
Pink — 6-10 in.; 8-12 in.; color various; flowers August-Sept. 
Beautiful colors; one of the best for cutting. C. 



66 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Poppy (Iceland) — 6 in.; 12-18 in.; color white, yellow, orange; 
flowers May-Sept. Flowers on long, stiif stems. Continuous 
bloomers. C. 

Poppy (Oriental) — 12-18 in.; 24-36 in.; color crimson shades; 
flowers June-August. Enormous, brilliant flowers; vigorous 
growth. 

Primrose — 4-5 in.; 4-6 in.; color yellow, pink; flowers April- 
May. Pretty, early flowers for border or edging. 

Pyrethrum — 8-12 in.; 12-24 i"-> color various; flowers August 
to frost. Very attractive little edging plant. 

RuDBECKiA — 12-18 in.; 4-7 ft.; color yellow; flowers August- 
Sept. Good for screening and mass. Rank grower. P. 8. 

ScABiosA — 8-12 in.; 15-30 in.; color white, various, and blue; 
flowers June-August. Fine light-blue flowers for cutting, 
blooming very freely. C. 

SiLENE — 5-6 in.; 4-5 in.; color white to rose; flowers June- 
August. Low-growing plant, good for masses or broad 
edgings. 

Snapdragon — 8-12 in.; 24 in.; color various; flowers July- 
Sept. One of the finest flowers for cutting. Hardy with 
protection. P. C. 

Veronica — 8 in.; 24-30 in.; color purple; flowers August. 
Good for edging. 



PERENNIAL FLOWERS 



COMING INTO BLOOM 


HEIGHT 


COLOR 


SEASON OF BLOOM 


March 








Wind-flower 


6 in. 


Blue 


March-May 


Blood-root' 


6 in. 


White 


March-Apr. 


April 








Rock-moss 


6 in. 


White purple 


Apr.-June 


Daisy 


4-6 in. 


Various 


Apr.-July 


Hardy Candytuft... 


10 in. 


White 


Apr.-May 


Alpine Lamp-flower, 








Lychnis 


6 in. 


Pink 


Apr.-May 


Early Forget-me-not, 








Myosotis 


6 in. 


Blue 


Apr.-June 


Everblooming F. 








Myosotis 


10 in. 


Blue, light 


Apr.-June 


Blue-bells 


I ft. 


Blue 


Apr.-May 


Moss Pink, Phlox.. 


6 in. 


Pink 


Apr.-June 


Trilliums 


12-15 111- 


White-red 


Apr.-May 



FLOWERS 

PERENNIAL FLOWERS 



67 



COMING INTO BLOOM 


HEIGHT 


COLOR 


SEASON OF BLOOM 


May 






Alyssum, saxatile . . 


I ft. 


Golden-yellow 


May-June 


Columbine (Aquile- 








gia) 


I ft. 


Various 


May-June 


Lily-of-the-Valley .. 


8 in. 


White 


May-June 


Bleeding-Heart, Di- 








centra 


2-J4 ft. 


Pink 


May-June 
May-June 


German-Iris 


12-15 in. 


Various 


Peony 


2 ft. 


Various 


May-June 


June 






Achillea Ptarmica.. 


J/2 ft. 


White 


June-August 


Wind-flower, Anem- 








one 


18 in. 


White 


June-Sept. 
June-July 


St. Bruno's Lily. . . 


18 in. 


White 


Columbine 


3 ft. 


Golden 


June-August 


Astilbe Japouica. . . 


2 ft. 


White 


June-July 


Campanula, Harebell 


8 in. 


Blue 


June-Sept. 


Canterbury Bell.... 


2-3 ft. 






Scotch Pink, Dian- 








thus 


1 in. 


Pink 


June-July 


Gas Plant, Dictam- 






nus 


3 ft. 
2 ft. 


Purple 
Orange-Maroon 


Tune 


Gaillardia aristata. . 


Tune-October 


Japan Iris 


2-3 ft. 


Various 


June-July 


Iceland Poppy .... 


I ft. 


Yellow 


June-October 


Oriental Poppy . .. 


2-4 ft. 


Scarlet 


June 


Pentstemon barba- 








tus 


3-4 ft. 
2-3 ft. 


Crimson 


June-Sept. 
June 


Perennial Phlox . . 


Various 


Spirea 


3 ft. 


White 


June-July 


Adam's Needle, 




Yucca 


4-5 ft. 


White 


June-July 


July 








Hollyhock 


5-8 ft. 


Various 


Summer and Fall 


Chamomile 


12-38 in. 


Yellow 


July-November 


Delphinium Chin- 








ense 


3 ft. 


Variable 


July-Sept. 
July-Sept. 


Heliantha multiflor- 




us 


4 ft. 
12-15 in. 


Golden 




Lychnis Viscaria. . . 


Rose-red 


July-August 


Pentstemon grandi- 






July-August 


florus 


2 ft. 


Purple 




Campanula grand- 






July-Sept. 


flora 


3 ft. 


Blue 




August 


August-October 


Day Lily 


18 in. 


White, Lavender 




Flame Flower, Tri- 




August- Sept. 


toma Uvaria .... 


3 ft. 


Orange-scarlet 




Cardinal Flower. . . 


2-1/4-4 ft. 


Cardinal red 


August-Sept. 


Giant Daisy 


3-5 ft. 


White 


July-October 


Golden Glow 


6-7 ft. 


Golden yellow 


August-Sept. 


Goldenrod 


3-5 ft. 


Deep yellow 


August-October 


September 








Anemone Japonica. 


2 ft. 


Red and White 


August-October 


October 








Hardy Chrysanthe- 








mums 


2-3 in. 


V^arious 


October-November 



XIV 



SHRUBS 

THE hardy shrubs are to be had in a great variety of 
shapes, sizes, and colors of bloom and bark. In 
making selections all these qualities should be given care- 
ful consideration. The best way is to 
go, if possible, direct to the nursery, 
where full grown specimens of the va- 
rious things may be seen, before buying. 
Most of the shrubs may be set out either 
in fall or early spring, but the work 
is usually done at the former time, as 
there is then not such a rush of other 
work demanding attention. 

Planting. After selecting the various 
spots where the shrubs are to be set, 
mark each plainly with a stake, and pre- 
pare a hole by spading up the soil, in a 
circle two feet or so in diameter and 
enriching it with well-rotted manure or 
a mixture of bone dust or coarse ground 
bone. Manure or fertilizer should be 
kept towards the bottom of the hole to 
„ , induce the downward growth of the 

Fig. 2y — Peach tree 

primed back for roots. In Setting out, keep the roots of 

planting. *= ' ^ 

the shrubs or trees covered before plant- 
ing, SO that they will not get dried out or cut. If there 
are any bruised or mutilated roots, cut them back to firm 

68 




SHRUBS 



69 



wood, and cut the top growth back a third or so if this 
has not already been done at the nursery. Spread the 
roots out in a natural position, not cramped or crowded, 
and fill in the earth about them, and press it firmly down 
with the fingers. If the soil is dry and water is re- 
quired, pour a quart or more into the hole, when it is 
not more than one-third filled. After the dirt is put 
back into the hole about the roots, press down thoroughly 
with the foot or with a blunt stick. Any trees or shrubs, 
especially if they are tall or large, set in an exposed posi- 
tion where they would be likely to be moved by the wind 
before taking root, should be held firmly in position by 
a temporary stake and tie. 

Mulching. Before severe freezing weather after fall 
planting, or at the beginning of drouth after spring 
planting, the soil around the roots of newly set shrubs 
should be mulched, if one does not wish to take chances. 




QOAniOS TO PRtVEKlT 



szzznz*^ 






i^i^ 




Winter mulch of leaves held in place by chicken wire. 

Coarse litter from the stable, marsh hay, or leaves held 
in place by a narrow strip of wire or a board or two will 
do. Where a whole bed is to be mulched, a neat and 
effective method is to run a narrow strip of chicken wire 
six to tw^elve inches high, supported by short stakes, 
around the bed and fill in with leaves. Winter mulches 
should be used also for the rose garden, the hardy bor- 
der and the bulb border. 

Pruning. Ornamental shrubs require very little prun- 
ing. Single specimens on the lawn may need occa- 



70 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

sional trimming back to keep them in symmetrical shape, 
but where they are planted in groups or in a continuous 
border, a better effect is usually had by letting them grow 
as they will and into each other. Broken or diseased 
branches should, of course, be cut out; and in an old 
clump which has become too crowded, the old wood should 
be cut down to the ground from the center. Shrubs 
which on wood made during the same season may be 
pruned in the spring. Those which flower on wood made 
during the previous season should be pruned in the fall 
or as soon after flowering as feasible. That is, as a gen- 
eral rule, shrubs flowering before the middle of summer 
should not be pruned in the spring; those flowering later 
than that, and in the fall, may be, 

Roses. A rose bed should receive special preparation. 
The spot selected for it should be thoroughly drained 
and open to the sun, and if it is sheltered from northwest 
winds, so much the better. Dig the soil out to a depth 
of about two feet, unless the sub-soil is sandy or gravelly, 
when it will not be necessary. Put in 
six inches or so of good drainage mate- 
rial, and then a foot of soil made very 
rich with manure which can be heavier 
than that used for ordinary garden pur- 
poses, as it will have a chance to decay 
^^_ to a large extent before it is needed. 

rig. 29 — Dormant 

rose pruned back Coarse bonc should also be mixed with 

after planting. 1 m -nu • • u 

the sou. 1 he upper six mches or so 
should not be made so rich, ordinary good garden soil 
doing well enough. 

The plants should be set out carefully (see directions 
above), pruning back as indicated on the accompanying 
cut if the plants are dormant. The usual time for set- 




SHRUBS 71 

ting is, in latitudes north of Philadelphia, in the spring. 
They may be set in the fall, and the hardy varieties will 
usually come through with proper mulching, but spring 
planting is, on the whole, the most satisfactory. The bed 
should be set, kept carefully cultivated, and mulching in 
excessively dry weather is desirable, and a sharp watch 
should be kept for insects and diseases, the two chief of 
which are the rose beetle or slug and mildew. 

Pruning is the most important operation in succeeding 
with roses. At the end of the season's growth, all shoots 
which would be likely to be whipped around by the wind 
should be cut back a third or so, and a general trimming 
up may be given, but is not necessary. Early in the 
spring, as soon as the leaf buds begin to swell, the plants 
should be pruned back severely. To 
get the largest and best flowers for 
cutting, the most of the garden roses 
should be cut out to a few canes, with 
only a few eyes left on a cane. For 
ordinary garden culture, however, it 
is better to leave the canes longer and 
have a greater abundance of bloom, 
even if the flowers are not quite so 
large. Each cane should be cut back 

£1 • I- 1 Fig. 30 — Rose pro- 

rm wood, even it the rose tected with straw 

beds look, after this treatment, like 
nothing but a lot of stubs. You should aim to cut 
just above the outside bud, so that the new terminal 
shoot, which is usually the strongest, will grow outward, 
leaving an open bush. Most of the garden roses, and es- 
pecially the tenderer sorts, like the new hybrid teas, need 
mulching through the winter. This should be put on 
after the ground has become thoroughly frozen, as the 




72 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

object is, not to keep the roots from freezing, but to pre- 
vent repeated thawing and freezing. Those which are 
not able to stand the winter otherwise, may be grown 
in pots which are put into frames in the fall and kept 
in that way, or wrapped in straw jackets through the 
winter (Fig. 30). 



XV 

FRUITS 

THE small fruits, the stone and pome fruits, such as 
apples and peaches, may be grown on any good, 
garden soil. Good drainage is absolutely necessary. 
Holes for planting fruit trees may be prepared in the same 
way as those described for shrubs. 

Cultivation. Because the fruit trees and small 
fruits, such as currants and grapes, will stand almost any 
amount of abuse, without being actually killed, they are 
frequently neglected. In order to obtain satisfactory re- 
sults they must be properly cultivated. The cultivation 
can be very shallow and can be done very rapidly with a 
wheelhoe or rake, or with a harrow on a larger scale. 
Where more than a few bushes or trees are kept, it is a 
good plan to sow some cover crop in August or early 
September which will not only save cultivation, but will 
also give the ground protection through the winter, and 
will furnish humus to spade or plow under in the spring. 
(See green manures.) 

Spraying and Pruning. In the growing of fruits, 
both the small fruits and the tree fruits, to give protec- 
tion from both diseases and insects is perhaps the most 
important part of the work. This is done most effec- 
tually by the means of sprays, and you should make your- 
self familiar with the things which are likely to cause 
trouble and their remedies. As soon as you find any- 
thing which appears to be wrong, you should immediately 

73 



74 THE Gy\RDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

ascertain what is wrong and begin the fight against it, 
without a day's delay. The tables will enable you to 
diagnose any of the more common troubles very quickly. 
Proper pruning is also very important. Cutting back 
the plants at the time of setting has already been spoken 
of. The fruit trees, apple, plum, pear, and so forth, are 
now trained to what is called the open head or vase form, 
which consists in cutting them back, cutting off the main 
leader quite low to the ground, when they are planted 
out a year later, and inducing a lateral or spreading open 
growth of the lateral branches as a result. If pruning is 
done properly from the beginning, very little will have 
to be done each season, except trimming enough to keep 
the young growing trees in shape with a pocket knife. 
For larger trees, all broken limbs or those which cross, 
or where growth has become too crow^ded through neg- 
lect, should be cut off, always being careful to make a 
clean cut with a sharp pruning knife or saw. 



XVI 
BULBS 

FOR FALL PLANTING 

MOST of the fall-planted, spring-blooming bulbs 
may be planted any time up until severe freezing, 
but usually the sooner after the first hard frosts the bet- 
ter. In ordering, use care in selecting types and varie- 
ties suited to your particular purpose. Replanting the 
bulbs after 3 or 4 years improves the blooms. 

Tulips. Used mostly in long borders or " design " 
planting, the former being much more artistic and satis- 
factory. Great variety of colors and markings. The 
several types bloom through May and June. Plant 4 to 
6 inches deep; 6 to 12 inches apart. 

Narcissus. Favorites for naturalizing. Several dis- 
tinct types or " sections," such as Daffodils and Jonquils, 
all good. Plant September or October, 3 to 4 inches 
deep, in solid beds, borders, clumps, or naturalized. 
Flowers mostly white and yellow shades, blooming in 
May and June. 

Hyacinth. Especially good for formal and design bed- 
ding. Bulbs vary a great deal in size. Plant 3 to 5 
inches deep, 4 to 10 inches apart. 

Crocus. Used for naturalizing or borders or edgings. 
Re-set after 2 or 3 years. Plant 3 or 4 inches deep. 

Scilla (Squill) — Snowdrops — Chinodoxa. Small 
bulbs with small, cheery, low-growing flower-stalks, es- 

75 



76 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

pecially valuable for brightening the lawn or grounds In 
early spring. 

Trilliums. Do well in shade; very pretty but not 
conspicuous flowers. 

Lilies. Among the most showy and satisfactory per- 
manent features of the place. Most of them require win- 
ter mulch protection (see page 70). The various types 
mature at different seasons: a safe rule is to plant in au- 
tumn as soon as received from the seedsman. Most sorts 
should go 4 inches deep to top of bulb : L. Auratum should 
go 8 to 10 inches deep. Put a good double-handful of sand 
under and around each bulb, when planting. In moist 
soil make raised beds with turf sides, to assure perfect 
drainage. 

FOR SPRING PLANTING 

The following, with the exception of gladioli, may 
with advantage be started under glass before setting out, 
as they are very tender and will not make headway in the 
open until settled warm weather has arrived. All must 
be taken up in the fall, after frost has blackened the foli- 
age, dried half a day or so in the sun, and stored safe 
from freezing until the foliage dries enough to be taken 
off, and then stored in a frost-proof cellar or room, pref- 
erably packed In sand or sawdust, if where the air is very 
dry. 

Gladiolus. Wonderful range of colors and markings; 
easily grown ; multiplies rapidly. Plant, for succession 
of bloom, from April to June, smaller bulbs first; 2 to 4 
inches deep; 6 to 12 inches apart. Save small new bulb- 
lets, that form about old ones, to increase stock. Light 
soil preferred. 

Dahlia. Rank feeders. 5 to 8 feet high; should be 



BULBS 77 

staked. Separate or cut up old clumps, first starting in 
mild heat to show buds. Having but few stalks in a 
clump will give better flowers ; but large, isolated clumps, 
especially of the single or cactus types, are very effective 
and decorative. 

Caladium (Elephants' Ear). Very tender, but quite 
tropical in effect. Take up before frost in the fall and 
store in a warm cellar or under bench in greenhouse, in 
sand. Start before setting out in spring. 

Carinas, Favorites for bedding, and centers of mixed 
beds. Newer sorts valuable for flowers. Grown from 
seed (started in February or March), but more generally 
from old roots or cuttings of same, each piece having at 
least one strong eye. Grows 3 to 8 feet high. Set 12 to 
20 inches apart in beds ; 2 feet or more for large clumps. 
Begonias. Tuberous. Particularly beautiful and 
satisfactory. Bloom all season. Do well in partial 
shade. Last many years. Buy started plants or start 
tubers early. Set bulbs 8 to 12 inches or more apart, very 
shallow. 



XVII 

INSECTS AND DISEASES — PROTECTING 

PLANTS 

INSECTS attacking plants, In the garden, in the or- 
chard or in the house, are of two types: those which 
live by chewing and those which suck the plant juices. 
It is very evident, therefore, that the punishment must be 
made to fit the criminal. 

The three methods of combating insects are: first, to 
keep them away altogether, by mechanical protection ; 
second, to poison them by poisoning the food they eat; 
third, to destroy them or drive them off by some contact 
poison or corrosive which will be effective without being 
taken into the mouth and stomach. 

Insects will give you a great deal of trouble, or little, 
according as you prepare or neglect to prepare to get ready 
for them. Most of the common pests can be controlled 
If taken in time — the hour when you first notice them. 
To be able to do this, you should have a supply of the 
most needed insecticides and fungicides on hand. This 
is now easy to do, for all the things in the following list 
can now be bought ready prepared in small packages that 
will keep. A single package will in most cases last for 
more than one season, so the expense of sufficient protec- 
tion is very slight compared to the injury done for want 
of it. 

Here is what your insect arsenal should contain: 

78 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 



79 



A compressed air sprayer. A powder gun or bellows. 
One package of each of the following: 



Kerosene emulsion 
Tobacco dust 
Nicotine extract 
Arsenate of lead 



Paris green 
Hellebore 
Lime sulphur 
Bordeaux mixture 



Tobacco Dust should be strong and made for the pur- 
pose; it is about three cents a pound in bulk. For dust- 





Fig. 31 — Bellows for applying insecti- 
cides in dust form. 



Fig. 32 — A good sprayer for 
liquid sprays. 



ing around on the ground about plants set out in the 
green house or coldframes and for dusting under the 
leaves of plants; it is especially effective as a preventative 
where the plants are likely to be infested by plant lice, or 
cucumber beetles, squash bugs, etc. Can be used in prac- 
tically any quantity directly on the foliage without injury. 
Nicotine Extract. This comes in various patented, 
commercial preparations which usually contain some oils 



8o THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

besides the nicotine, making a more protective emulsion; 
if used thoroughly and in time they are very effective. 
One part of the preparation is usually diluted with twenty 
to forty parts water. Always follow directions on con- 
tainers carefully. 

Arsenate of Lead. Comes usually in a thick, creamy 
paste and can be diluted with water and sprayed. Or 
the powdered materials for making — only two — may be 
bought. Has the advantage over Paris green that It 
will not Injure the foliage and will stay on much longer. 
Should be sprayed on several hours before a rain, to give 
it time to set, when It will not wash off. 

Paris Green. A standard insecticide for many pur- 
poses. Can be used either in a spray or dry, but should 
be diluted in the former case with water and in the 
second with plaster of Paris. It sometimes is used pure 
on potatoes but must be blown on with a machine made 
for the purpose, In such small amounts that it cannot be 
seen. 

Bordeaux Mixture. The standard preventative for 
blights and fungous diseases. Dilute according to direc- 
tions and spray thoroughly. Arsenate of lead or Paris 
green may be added and sprayed on at the same time. 
Where it Is desirable not to discolor the foliage such as on 
ornamental plants, or ripening fruit, use ammonical copper 
carbonate solution instead of Bordeaux. (See Home- 
Made Sprays for directions telling the best way for mak- 
ing it.) 

Lime Sulphur Wash. Is used as a winter spray for 
San Jose scale and In a much weaker solution as a summer 
spray for rust. Arsenate of lead or Paris green may be 
used with it. 

Hellebore. Is used for currant worms or In other 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 



8i 



places where it Is not desirable to use Paris green. It is 
dusted on dry or sprayed. 

Kej'osene Ef?iulsio?i. This is a very safe and effective 
insecticide for sucking insects, such as plant lice and 
aphids, mealy bugs, cabbage worms, young squash bugs 
and so forth, and scale. (See Home-made Sprays.) 

Applying Insecticides. Two chief points In using 
insecticides successfully, Is to use them In time and to 
apply them thoroughly. Most plant pests multiply so 





Fig. 33 — Various types of spray nozzles. 

rapidly that if only a few are left, they will very quickly 
be in full force again. Dusting with powder should, of 
course, be done when there is little wind and preferably 
while the dew is still on the foliage in the morning. 

In applying sprays, be sure first that your solution is 
of the right strength for the purpose In hand ; second, that 
It is kept continuously agitated, so that there will be no 
chance for any of the ingredients to settle; third, that 
every minutest portion of foliage and bark or fruit Is 
covered. Two or three nozzles should be kept on hand 
of different types, also an extension pole for spraying of 
taller trees. Make an examination within a day after 
the spraying has been done, and If not wholly successful, 
go over the plants a second time. 



82 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Care of Sprayers. See to It that your spraying ma- 
chine is kept scrupulously clean, as some of the chemicals 
used are very corrosive and others will dry and clog up 
the nozzles or will destroy rubber hose. Have all the 
various spray materials carefully labeled and kept in one 
place where there will be no danger of anyone's upsetting 
them or mistaking them for something else. 



XVIII 

HOME MADE SPRAYS AND POISONS 

Kerosene Emulsion. Thoroughly dissolve ^ lb. 
strong soap in a quart or so of hot water. Add this to 
I gal. water and 2 gals, kerosene, — or In these propor- 
tions. (For small amounts use 2 cubic inches soap, i pt. 
water and i qt. kerosene.) Place in pail or tub and 
churn or pump until a thick, lathery cream results. This 
is the "stock" solution. In using, dilute with 5 to 15 
parts water — on dormant growth, 5 to 7 ; for most pur- 
poses 10; and for light work 15. 

. Bordeaux Mixture. (5-5-50 formula.) Dissolve 
copper sulphate (crystals) in water at the rate of i lb. to 
I gal. This should be done the day before, or at least 
several hours before, the Bordeaux Is wanted for use. 
Suspend the sulphate crystals In a cloth or old bag just 
below the surface of the water. Then slake the same 
amount of lime In a tub or tight box, adding the water 
a little at a time, until the whole attains the consistency 
of thick milk. (When necessary, add water to this mix- 
ture If It is kept long; never let It dry out.) When ready 
to spray, pour the stock copper sulphate solution Into the 
tank in the proportion of i gal. to every 10 of spray re- 
quired. Add water to amount required. Then add 
stock lime solution, first diluting about one-half with 
water and straining. 

For small amount, use i tablespoon ful copper sul- 
phate; i-}4 of Lime, and i gal. of water. 

83 



84 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Ammonical Copper Carbonate. 6 ounces copper 
carbonate; 3 pints of ammonia; dilute ammonia in 7 to 
8 parts water; make paste of copper carbonate with 
water ; mix the two together until dissolved — add 50 
gals, water. For small amounts, use two teaspoonfuls 
copper carbonate; two ounces (fluid) of ammonia; two 
gals, water. Must be used soon after mixing; used as a 
substitute for Bordeaux, as it does not mark the foliage 
or ripening fruit, but it is not so effective. 

Poison Bran Mash. Used for cutworms; to 25 lbs. 
bran, middlings or coarse flour, add ^ lb. Paris Green, 
and mix thoroughly; then add ^ to i pt. molasses, or 
brown sugar, and enough water to make a mash thick 
enough to spread. Scatter in small quantities where cut- 
worms give trouble. For small amount, use i qt. bran, 
I tablespoonful of molasses, i teaspoonful of Paris Green. 

COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR SPRAYING 

HOUSE AND FLOWER GARDEN 

Aphis — Attacks various plants, mostly indoors. Remedies: nico- 
tine preparations, kerosene emulsion. Two or three applica- 
tions several days apart will be necessary to get the plants 
clean; avoid shade, dryness and crowding. 

Aster-Beetle — Attacks asters mostly. Remedy: arsenate of 
lead, strong. Usually appear quickly in large numbers; 
quick work is necessary to save the plants. 

Mealy-Bug — Attacks coleus, soft-wooded plants, inside. Reme- 
dies: kerosene emulsion, water, hot (for dipping). Hide in 
leaf axils; if only a few appear kill with match stick and 
alcohol. 

Red-Spider — Attacks roses and other plants, indoors. Remedy: 
syringing. Avoid dry atmosphere; apply water with as 
much force as possible several times a week to foliage. 

Rose-Beetle — Attacks roses, out-of-doors. Remedies: arsenate 
of lead, paris green, strong. Use hand picking into can of 
kerosene and water in connection with spray. 



SPRAYS AND POISONS 85 

Scale — Attacks ferns, palms and hard-wooded plants. Reme- 
dies: kerosene emulsion, water, hot (for dipping). Dipping is 
most effective treatment; rinse carefully afterwards. 

Thrips — Attacks various, mostly outdoors. Remedies : arsenate 
of lead, paris green, kerosene emulsion. Very small; they 
eat the leaf epidermis leaving the skeleton. 

White Flies — Attacks various, mostly indoors. Remedies: 
nicotine preparations, kerosene emulsion. 

Mildew, Powdery — Attacks roses and others. Remedy: sulphur, 
flowers of (for dusting). Avoid any sudden shock, such as 
a cold draft from a window, etc. 

Leaf Spot, Rot or Rust — Attacks various. Remedy: bordeaux 
mixture. Before spraying remove and burn all affected 
leaves or plants carefully. 

vegetable garden 

Aphis — Attacks melons, cabbage, etc. Remedies: nicotine prep- 
arations, kerosene emulsion. Spray must reach under side 
of leaves, especially of melons; several applications three or 
four days apart. 

Asparagus-Beetle — Attacks asparagus foliage. Remedy: 
arsenate of lead. Late in summer all vines should be cut 
and burned. 

Caterpillar — Attacks cabbage, tomato and tobacco. Remedies: 
arsenate of lead, paris green, hellebore. 

Cucumber-Beetle — Attacks cucumbers and vines. Remedies: 
arsenate of lead, tobacco dust. Use bordeaux mixture in 
connection with arsenate of lead; tobacco dust as preventive. 

Cut-Worms — Attacks cabbage, tomato, onions, etc. Remedy: 
arsenate of lead, in bran. Make a poisoned bran bait by 
mixing i qt. wheat bran, one teaspoon white arsenate, one 
teaspoon cane molasses. 

Flea-Beetle — Attacks tomato, potato; cabbage, turnip seed- 
lings. Remedies: arsenate of lead, tobacco dust. Especially 
injurious to seedlings of cabbage, turnip and radish; tobacco 
dust as preventive. 

Potato-Beetle — Attacks potato, eggplant and tomato. Reme- 
dies: arsenate of lead, paris green. Especially injurious to 
eggplant; hand pick as well as spraying. 



86 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 

Squash-Bug — Attacks squashes and vines. Remedies: kerosene 
emulsion, tobacco dust. Tobacco dust is preventive as soon 
as plants get above ground; kerosene emulsion for young 
bugs. 

White-Flies — Attacks tomato, cucumber, etc. Remedies: kero- 
sene emulsion, nicotine preparations, tobacco dust. Tobacco 
dust as preventive as soon as old flies appear; injury is done 
by the young Nymphs. 

Mildew — Attacks cucumber, lima beans, etc. Remedy: bordeaux 
mixture. Keep vines sprayed after middle of July with 
bordeaux mixture as preventive. 

Blight — Attacks cucumbers, potatoes, etc. Remedy: bordeaux 
mixture. For cucumbers, same as above; for potatoes, begin 
spraying when about six inches high, and keep new growth 
coated. 

Leaf Spot, Rot or Rust. — Attacks beans, tomatoes, celery, etc. 
Remedies: bordeaux mixture, ammoniacal solution copper car- 
bonate. Keep covered with bordeaux mixture after the 
middle of July; on celery late spraying should be done with 
ammoniacal solution copper carbonate, which does not stain 
the foliage and stalks. 

orchard and fruit garden 

Apple-Scab — Attacks apple, pear. Remedies: bordeaux mixture, 

lime sulphur (summer). Spray three times: before blossoms 

open; after blossoms fall; follow up in fourteen days. 
Blister-Mite — Attacks apple, pear. Remedies: lime sulphur, 

miscible oil, kerosene emulsion, strong. Spray thoroughly in 

late fall or early spring. 
Bud-Moth — Attacks apple. Remedy: arsenate of lead. Spray 

twice; when leaves appear; before blossoms open. 
Caterpillar, Tent — Attacks apple. Remedy: arsenate of lead. 

Burn nests before caterpillars begin to spread. 
Canker- Worm — Attacks apple. Remedy: arsenate of lead. 

Same as for Codlin-moth. 
Codlin-Moth — Attacks apple. Remedy: arsenate of lead. In 

addition to spray use burlap bands on trunk for trap during 

July. 
CuRCULio — Attacks cherry, peach, plum. Remedy, arsenate of 

lead, strong. Spraying not very effective; jar trees every 



SPRAYS AND POISONS 87 

cool morning and catch beetles on sheet; spread beneath for 
several weeks after blossoms fall. 

Currant- Worm — Attacks currant, gooseberry. Remedies: 
arsenate of lead, paris green, hellebore. At first appearance, 
usually before blossoming, spray at once. If a second brood 
appears after fruit forms, use hellebore. 

Leaf-Hopper — Attacks grape. Remedy: kerosene emulsion. Be 
careful to cover under side of foliage. 

Scale, San Jose — Attacks all fruit trees. Remedies: lime sul- 
phur, miscible oil, kerosene emulsion, strong. Spray during 
winter or early spring, covering every part of trunk and 
branches. 

Scale, Oyster-shell — Attacks apple and other fruit trees. 
Remedy: kerosene emulsion, medium. Kerosene emulsion, 
medium strength, applied in May or June, when young scale 
which appear like small, whitish lice, hatch out. 

Black Rot — Attacks grape. Remedies: bordeux mixture, am- 
moniacal solution copper carbonate. Spray bordeaux mix- 
ture until middle of July; after that, ammoniacal solution 
copper carbonate. For one or two vines cover each bunch 
when half grown with manila " store " bag. 

Fruit Rot — Attacks plum, peach, cherry. Remedies: lime sul- 
phur (summer), bordeaux mixture. Keep fruit thinned so it 
will not touch. Gather cherries before quite ripe and spread 
out in a cool, airy place. 

Leaf Blight or Curl — Attacks plum, peach, cherry. Remedies: 
lime sulphur (summer), bordeaux mixture. In using lime 
sulphur, be sure not to get it too strong. 

Mildew — Attacks gooseberry, especially foreign sorts. Remedy: 
potassium sulphide. Keep plants pruned to open form to 
allow free circulation of air. 

Rust — Attacks strawberries. Remedy: bordeaux mixture. Keep 
plants sprayed during first season and until a blossom sec- 
ond season. 



88 THE GARDENER'S POCKET MANUAL 



CALENDAR OF 

SPRAY APPLE 

When leaves unfold. 

Three days after petals fall. 

When first worm hole is seen 
on tiny fruits; watch closely 
for this and get busy in- 
stantly. 

Thirty days from this time. 

Whenever small caterpillars 
are seen. 

The twenty-fifth of June. 

The fifteenth of August. 

SPRAY CHERRY, PLUM, 

When leaves unfold. 



OPERATIONS 

AND PEAR 

With arsenate of lead com- 
bined with first strength 
Bordeaux; this makes one 
application do the work of 
two. 



When petals fall. 

Ten da^'s after petals fall. 

Ten days from this applica- 
tion. 

Ten days from the last appli- 
cation. 

SPRAY 

Before growth has started at 

all. 
When leaves unfold. 

May first and on, every week. 
As soon as slugs or rose 

beetles appear. 
Whenever aphids (plant lice) 

appear. 



With arsenate of lead alone. 
With arsenate of lead alone. 

PEACH AND APRICOT 

With arsenate of lead com- 
bined with second-strength 
Bordeaux. The latter may 
be omitted from the second 
spraying and from the last 
two sprayings, if trees are 
in prime condition. 



ROSES 

With full strength soap wash, 
used hot. 

With second strength Bor- 
deaux. 

With potassium sulphide. 

With arsenate of lead. 

With the dilute soap wash. 



INDEX 



Annuals, 55, 59, 64 
Asparagus, 47 

Beans, 47 
Beets, 47 
Begonias, 77 
Biennials, 64 
Borders, 55 
Broccoli, 48 
Brussels Sprouts, 4.8 
Budding, 31 
Bulbs, 58 
Bulbs, 75 

Cabbage, 48 
Cannas, 77 
Carrots, 48 
Cauliflower, 48 
Celery, 48 
Chionodoxa, 75 
Cold-frame, i 
Compost, II 
Concrete, 36 
Corn, 49 
Crocking, 57 
Crocus, 75 
Cucumbers, 49 
Cultivation, 23 
Cuttings, 56 

Dahlia, 76 

Dime, ii 

Disease? of Plants, 59, 78, 84 

Drainage, 15 

Drills, 17 



89 



Egg-Plant, 50 
Endive, 50 

Ferbena, 5 

Fertilizers, lo, 13 

Flats, 4 

Flowers, 55 

Frost, treatment for, 7 

Fruit crops, 45 

Fruits, 73 

Fruits, when to spray, 89 

Gladiolus, 76 
Grafting, 31 
Grafting Wax, 33 
Green-manuring, 13 

Hardening off, 7, 19 
Harrowing, 15 
Hills, 17 
Hot-bed, I 
Humus, 14 
Hyacinth, 75 

Insects, 59, 78, 95 
Insecticides, 79 
Insecticides, Applying, 81 
Irrigation, 26 

Kale, 50 
Kohl-rabi, 50 

Leaf-crops, 44 
Leek, 50 
Lettuce, 51 
Level Culture, 25 



go 



INDEX 



Lilies, 76 

Manure, 2, 9 
Mats, 3 
Melons, 51 
Mulching, 69 

Narcissus, 75 
Nitrate of soda, 11 

Okra, 51 
Onions, 51 

Paper pots, 6 
Parsley, 52 
Parsnips, 52 
Parsnips, 52 
Peas, 52 
Peppers, 52 
Perennials, 58, 64, 67 
Pipe fittings, 38 
Planting, 19 
Planting Tables, 40-44 
Plant Supports, 54 
Plowing, 14 
Potato, 52 
Propagation, 57-58 
Protecting cloth, 3 
Pruning, 19 
Pruning, 69 
Pumpkin, 52 

Radishes, 53 
Rhubarb, 53 
Root Crops, 39 
Roses, 70 

Roses, pruning, 71 
Rows, 17 



Salpiglosis, 56 

Salsify, 53 

Sash, 3 

Scilla, 75 

Sea-Kale, 53 

Shrubs, 68 

Shutters, 3 

Snapdragon, 56 

Snow-drops, 75 

Soil, 17 

Soil, testing for acidity, 12 

Sowing, Outside, 17, 19 

Sowing, Under Glass, 4 

Spading, 14, 15 

Spinach, 53 

Spraying, 81 

Sprays, 83 

Squash, 53 

Sub-soil, 14 

Tomato, 54 
Tools, 21 
Top-dressing, ii 
Transplanting, 5, 19 
Trees, 34 
Trenching, 15 
Trilliums, 76 
Tulips, 75 
Turnips, 54 

Use of feet, 20 

Ventilation, 7 

Watering, 6 
Watermelons, 51 
Weeding, 24 
Weeds, 29 
Window box, 59 



